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The Donkey Plavac & Milos Plavac: two typical Dalmatian wines.

Like many people present at last week’s Croatian wine festivities, I was unfamiliar with Croatian culture. Sure I’ve eaten cevapcici and even made ajvar recently, but I do not come from there, nor does my family, and before Croatian wine entered my life I knew only one Croatian, philosopher Daniel Kolak.     I was excited for the first ever Grand Croatian tasting, having tasted a handful of their local wines, and being particularly intrigued by a former vintage of Dingac Winery’s Peljesac, or ‘The Donkey Wine’ in some circles. I knew that the variety had alluring aromas of flowers and herbs, an elegant translucence, and beguiling sense of fruit. Still I was not prepared for the diversity and terroir-specificity this grape offers.     The grape most commonly linked with Plavac Mali is Zinfandel, which originates in Croatia and is a relative of Plavac. I typically describe the wines as exhibiting the deep, dark fruited spiciness of Zinfandel, with the old-world body of Gamay. The grapes and wines are surely related, though each with a very distinct personality.     Between the Hudson Terrace grand tasting and consumer event put on by Oenocentric with Blue Danube at Veslo in Astoria, I tasted at least 20 distinct Plavac Malis and blends, discovering a wide range of styles. Sometimes with a touch of residual sugar, there were both soft and light wines and others that were bold with more structure. One of the most exciting aspects of this variety is that it produces unique wines with complexity, even in its simpler expressions. It was and remains thrilling to explore the Southern Dalmatian regions and sub-regions, and impossible to enjoy the wines without longing to visit the places they convey.     This diversity promises a category of wines full of food pairing opportunities. Milos Plavac is served locally with oysters, something I hope to recreate in NY soon. We can also easily imagine it’s tea-like flavors complementing tea-smoked duck, a Hunan dish. Beyond pairing with its own and other cuisines, I expect Plavac Mali to be especially suited to the innovative and fusion menus popular in New York. I can almost taste how the duck confit empanada would draw out the floral and spicy flavors of Bura Galerija.     Now, after drinking my way up and down the Peljesac peninsula, I feel connected to Croatia. If ever I thought selling wine in New York was blasé or just a job, working with this set of bridge building wines has restored my enthusiasm tenfold. Plavac Mali, a true Croatian treasure, is one of the most exciting varieties we have access to. Though admittedly hard to pronounce, this grape outside the realm of the familiar invites you to become a part of its Aegean coastal culture.     (We are very happy that Tess Rose joined the Blue Danube Wine team. Tess will represent our wines in New York.)

Jean-Michel Morel, proprietor and wine maker at Kabaj.

“Taste it with your eyes closed,” says Jean Michel Morel as I swirl his Amfora 2006 in my glass.     We are at the Kabaj tasting for trade and press, held Thursday at the restaurant Terroir in Tribeca, NYC. Jean Michel and Kabaj’s sales manager, Tomo Ceh, were there to pour eight wines made in the hills of Goriska Brda hard against Slovenia’s border with Italy.     I closed my eyes and tasted the light amber wine in my glass. The aroma was rich, of honey and sweet pollen. The wine was smooth, with ample body and a lactic topnote, like the smell of a great cheese shop, as well as a noticeable oxidation which, with the healthy acidity and slight tannin of the wine, gave its body rigor. Beneath was an elusive floral quality and light smoke. If I hadn’t known this wine was white, with my eyes closed I might have assumed it was a red with a little age on it—and that was Jean Michel’s point.      “It’s red wine—only the color is white,” he says.
    The 2006 is the middle vintage of three white blends he is pouring that are made in Georgian clay amphoras buried in the ground following a 7,000-year-old method. Amfora is made from the indigenous Rebula (Ribolla Gialla), Sauvignonasse (Tocai Friulano), and Malvasia Istriana. The maceration and fermentation of these whites is ten months long, extracting tannins, deep color, and the flavors of wild yeast while intensifying further through the loss of 20% of the wine through evaporation.     Kabaj’s non-amphora wines are also intense. Winemaking in this area of western Slovenia is characterized by long maceration for concentration and structure. Many who taste the wines may recognize the grapes from their knowledge of the Italian wines of Collio, but most don’t realize that Collio and Brda are the same place. Both words mean “hills,” and the vineyards cross borders without regard for nationality. (30% of Kabaj’s Sauvignonasse grapes grow in Italy.)     Kabaj’s wines are Old World in style, with the still-tart acidity made for food, and the structure for aging. Tomo pours the 2007 Merlot and I ask when he would drink this herbaceous, smoky, slightly tannic red. His answer: “From 2013 to 2020”. It is easy to imagine the Cuvee Morel 2006 (60% Merlot, 18% each of Cabs Franc and Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot), a beautifully complex wine that tantalizes the senses with aromas of herbs, flowers and grasses, developing nuance upon nuance well into the twenty-teens.     After the tasting, Stetson and I chat about what makes these wines stand apart. It is Brda and its winemaking traditions, the terroir of soil/fruit/yeast that the wines express, and Jean Michel’s careful guardianship in the winery. These are not “minimalist” wines, which can sometimes seem dirty and experimental, but they do possess a quality that I loosely call funky. Funky is a very good thing—it means I can taste the land, the fermentation process, a bit of oxidation maybe. The wines taste earthy more than fruity, and they have integrity.     “Elegantly funky,” says Stetson. Perfectly stated.     Jean-Michel and Tomo are flying now to California where they will be hosting a number of wine dinners and tasting events in Los Angeles and San Francisco starting Sunday, May 15 with a tasting at Silverlake Wine at 3pm. We hope to see many of you there.
You can read the full schedule of the Kabaj events on the new community site Slovenes in USA.
    Text by Katherine Camargo, DWS , photos by Holley Robbins.

Tags: amfora    kabaj    new york    slovenia   

Jean-Michel and Tomo of Kabaj - Miha Batič.

We are pleased to announce the visit of two Slovenian wine makers in California in May: Miha Batič represents a pioneering organic estate in Vipava Valley. Jean-Michel Morel and Tomo Čeh come from Kabaj in Goriška Brda. Kabaj is reknowned for their unique Amphora and long maceration wines. Meet them at one of the many events we are planning. You can read the full schedule on the new community site Slovenes in USA.
    Please welcome Jean Michel of Kabaj when he makes his 1st step into an American Wine Bar: Terroir NY Tribeca, Thursday, May 12, 1-4pm. Jean will pour a selection of his finest wines for trade & media. R.S.V.P. required. On his trip from New York to Los Angeles Kabaj will meet and work with two James Beard Award nominees: The first is Chairman Paul Grieco of Terroir NY who was nominated for Excellence in Wine Service. We are very happy that Paul graciously agreed to host Kabaj for his first ever tasting in the United States at his renowned wine bar in Tribeca.
    It is an honor that the first wine dinner featuring the wines of Slovenian breakout Kabaj will take place at LA's iconic AOC. Paired with the cuisine of 2010 James Beard Award Nominee Suzanne Goin by the chef herself, this is a once only experience. The combination of Kabaj and AOC is deeper than great wine and great food.
The kitchen that French vigneron Jean Michel Morel and his wife Katja maintain at the Kabaj estate in Western Slovenia has a decidedly Provencal touch thanks to Jean's French roots. This elegant meal represents nothing less than a meeting of masters is also a cross cultural dialogue. The comprehensive line up of Kabaj wines will include 2 vintages of the estates benchmark "Amfora". This is sure to be one of the finest dinners we have yet been a part of. Please join us as we toast to them both this Monday, May 16th at 7pm at AOC. Please see the menu here.
    Watch a short & sweet video about Kabaj.

Luka Krajančić reciting one of his own poems.

These images were captured during our visit to the Island of Korčula this past summer. What was originally a tasting appointment with Pošip specialist Luka Krajančić turned into one of the greatest experiences of wine I have ever had. We met Luka at his tightly packed but spotless winery in the tiny coastal village where he lives. This was the first time I had met Luka. He is a big man but also very gentle, even shy. When we arrived a couple was already there tasting. One was a photographer without a camera and the other a young restaurateur who had just moved to the island. Our new friends were happy to start the tasting over.          The range of Krajančić's Pošip redefined the varietal to me. They were the deepest, most powerful and yet most elegant examples I had tasted. Each one was different, but always reflective of the site, the vintage and Luka's perspective. At the end he pulled out a sample of a 1 barrel production from an old patch of red Plavac vines, very rare on this white wine dominated island. It was inky, thick, explosively aromatic and deliciously savory and sweet. Though he produces no red wine commercially he clearly could. As the tasting winded down he casually asked if we could join them for lunch at his little beach house.          We grabbed bread, a case of Pošip and made our way to what turned out to be a beach so beautiful I thought I might pop like a bubble. It was a lazy little building set among craggy rocks and pine trees the porch we ate on looked out on a bay of electric blue sea. There we ate local shrimp and sardines packed in local olive oil with local vegetables and just baked bread. We talked wine, philosophy, art, sex, listened to some of Luka's heartfelt poetry and even made a poem with him. We swam, basked in the sun, drank our fills of his Pošip and laughed our asses off. It was a day of dreams that I will relive every time I open up a bottle of his delicious Pošip or set eyes on a sea of electric blue.          We are very excited that almost one year later Intrada, Luka ‘s premium Pošip is on its way to the U.S. It should be here shortly by the end of May.

Franci Cvetko serving his full line-up at Kogl winery.

Formally suited we hit the ground running on our latest work trip to Central Europe. We spent 12 days split between Croatia, Slovenia and Hungary. The night of our arrival was the kick-off Gala Dinner for the Zagreb Wine Gourmet Festival held in the capital’s Museum of Contemporary Art. Hosting over 140 wineries it is the largest tasting of Croatia’s wines all year. Attendees ranged from top politicians like President Ivo Josipovic to France's father of biodynamic farming Nicolas Joly. The fair itself was a frenzy of trade and consumers out of their minds to taste everything Croatian. We went in with high expectations but still the number of excellent wines was shocking. There is a growing self awareness among producers that indigenous grape varieties made in local styles are Croatia’s great strength. This coupled with the rapid increases in quality is yielding the most transparent views of Croatia’s complex terroir yet seen. To watch this unfold is inexplicable. Despite the crowd, between tastings we were able to finalize most of our spring shipment. Both days we tasted until the lights flashed and our mouths hurt. After the tasting we managed to enjoy 4 separate multi-course dinners in just 3 nights. We shared endless conversations with old friends, and got to know new ones. We all but completely burned ourselves out. Or so we thought.     Also at the fair pouring were a number of Slovenian producers including our friends from Kabaj. We had made plans to stay at their estate in Goriška Brda which has excellent guest accommodations. Together over the next few days we sped around Slovenia visiting their friends whose wines they thought we would enjoy. On the way from Zagreb we stopped in the chilly, domed hills of the Bela Krajina region to taste electric Laški Rizling and very cool climate Modra Frankinja AKA Blaufränkisch. We drank the iron rich Vitovska and Teran of the Karst, sea tinged Malvasija and Refošk from Koper, Pinela in both light and powerful forms from the Vipava and a long list of Brda wines, too numerous to recount. Our stay at Kabaj gave us a sense for not just the Kabaj wines but the family themselves. We tasted many wines some experimental, some from barrel, some quite old and others yet to be released. One long night this lasted until 6am in the morning. To enjoy this close a perspective on such an interesting producer was an honor. After this we met with our great partner Silvo Črnko and his 16 year old daughter Tamara who is a certified diver and now on her way to become a pilot. Naturally happy, Silvo’s gift is his ability to turn that happiness into wine. The 2010 Jareninčan, like the 09, is pure refreshing joy. Snow gently fell while we enjoyed a familial meal with the Cvetko's on the vineyard hill named Kogl. We selected a rose of Pinot Noir and an elegant sparkling from the expansive carefully nurtured selection of estate wines they Franci makes to be added to the classic dry whites of theirs we have long sold. These plus new wines from both Batič and Kabaj are due in Mid April.     From Slovenia we charged full bore into Hungary. Staying in Budapest next to the castle of Queen Maria Theresa, we took day trips to a number of important appellations. While in Budapest we spent time with our friends Gábor and Carolyn Bánfalvi who offer some of the best food and wine tours in Europe through their travel business "Taste of Hungary". Gábor introduced us to a number of excellent Forditas, an almost extinct “lesser” style of Tokaji we have been on the look-out for. We visited two volcanic wine regions back to back. Somlo, exclusively a white wine appellation and Eger which is almost exclusively red. Generally speaking the wines could not be more different. Somlo whites are big, gentle and lovely, while the reds from Eger are angular, sinewy and often demand aging. What they share is pronounced, often aromatic minerality and an infinite range of texture derived from the unique volcanic soils of each. Drawn to Somlo in part by the rare grape Juhfark we were equally struck by the Furmint, Hárslevelű and most of all Olaszrizling we tasted. In Eger we spent an evening with Dr. Janos Stumpf enjoying homemade wild venison sausage and a range of already delicious barrel samples. He is involved in a collaborative export project with Canadian Master Sommelier John Szábo called J&J. Their perfumed, muscular 2006 Kékfrankos from primly situated Eged vineyard will be coming to us soon. Taking little time to rest we managed to see both of Hungary’s major southerly red wine regions Szekszárd and Villány. After tasting the 2009 Eszterbauer Kadarka named Nagypám or Grandfather at Bistro Bock in Budapest last year we contacted Janos Eszterbauer and were lucky enough to buy a bit. Never met, only tasted one wine and it turned out to be one of the fastest selling for us, ever. Finally able to meet the family we discovered Eszterbauer is more than just great Kadarka. Just briefly seeing Villány we were happy we did not miss it. The final taste left in our mouths was Gere’s lovely new 2010 Rose and the sensational vintage specific Pinot Noir’s from the impassioned team at Vylyan.     As we seem to always find at the end of these trip our partners and the quality of their wines exceeded our expectations. We are excited to share what we found with you and hope that the wines will inspire you to visit our friends who make them.

Typical Karst village and vineyard in Slovenia.

I've spent the past 12 years exploring many of the former Yugoslav countries. And while many people are still trying to figure out where all these "new" countries are, I am already looking past the borders and delving into the diversity and unique qualities of specific regions. So welcome to the Karst, one of my long time favorites. It's a captivating place filled with limestone caves, hidden castles & hill top villages, wind ripened prosciutto and the bold flavor of Teran wine (AKA Refošk). The Karst is located in the south western part of Slovenia, close by the Adriatic coast and just an hour south of the majestic Julian Alps     A one hour drive from the capital city of Ljubljana and travelers will find the backroads all to themselves. It's wonderful to find a place that has such a strong tourist infrastructure yet remains decidedly un-touristy. The regional tourism board has a helpful list of agrotourisms (offering both lodging and mouthwatering dinners) along with wineries, honey producers and prosciutto cellars that will keep stomachs full in this blissful place. The landscape is dotted with "gostilnas", local eateries that serve up generous portions of regional dishes. Wine lovers will find no shortage of cellars to visit. Start with the ubiquitous iron-rich Teran wine produced by nearly everyone wine maker (large or small) before heading down to village of Goce and then onto the adjacent Vipava valley.     But there's more to just food and wine around here. The hill town of Stanjel is a good starting point with its easy walking paths, local art gallery and a good value restaurant in its rebuilt castle. It's also a great place to get a glimpse into the art of stone carving with many artisans still practicing and displaying their works. One can even sign for a week-long class held in Stanjel. Deep underground in the karst landscape lies the Skocjan caves, the closest thing to Lord of Rings most people will come across in Europe, boasting a massive underground canyon. Tucked away amongst a vineyard is the 12th century stone church in the tiny village of Hrastovlje. The interior is adorned with wall-to-wall frescoes including a stunning version of Dance of the Macabre. Nearby is Gostilna Svab which serves an excellent bean & corn soup with fresh-baked bread that melts in the mouth. And even those who've seen one too many European castles can still appreciate Predjama, a castle that appears to have been carved out from the limestone cliffs. And did I mention a carriage ride and show put on by the famous Lipizzaner horses? The Karst has that to offer as well.     Andrew Villone is the owner of Roads Less Traveled Tours, specializing in Central and Eastern Europe. He's been running boutique small group and custom tours for the past seven years.

The long run of the Danube River from the Black Forest to the Black Sea.

It is with pride and pleasure that we invite the trade and media to join us at our special upcoming tasting events. We will be introducing the latest arrivals from Hungary and Croatia. Our hosts, A Cote, Da Flora and Mignon, will be serving appetizers inspired from their travels along the road from Budapest to Venice. This is our best selection from Hungary ever and the U.S. Premiere of most of the wines:     * First organic vintage of the popular Pfneiszl Kekfrankos.     * First U.S. showing of the fiery Kadarka from up-and-coming estate Eszterbauer.     * Vylyan’s Pinot Noir, considered the best Hungarian PN to date (Caroline Gilby MW).     * New vintages from red wine super star Attila Gere: Portugieser, KOPAR, SOLUS.     * Sweet and dry premium Tokaji wines from top estate Patricius.     * First arrival of beautiful Tokaji wines by artisanal wine maker Judit Bott as featured in the recent NY Times article on Tokaj--Hidden in Hungary,Treasures on the Vine.     From Croatia we will introduce our first red Teran, delve deep into the story of Malvasia and share super premium wines from one of the most ambitious new projects in Croatia:     * Naturally made Malvasia and Teran from the young Istrian estate Piquentum.     * Two Malvasias made in different styles by leading wine maker Matosevic.     * A rare wine made from almost extinct grape Malvasia Dubrovnik by Karaman.     * The new ABC of wines from well known Bibich winery in Dalmatia: B5, B6, G6.     * And if the shipping stars align: the Premiere of a Dingac and Nevina from cult wine producer Saints Hills.     We know you are very busy, but these wines should be on your lists and shelves for this Holiday Season. We are hosting three events you can choose from:     * Tuesday Nov. 30 | A Cote | 5478 College Avenue, Oakland | 1 - 4pm     * Tuesday Nov. 30 | Mignon | 128 E Sixth Street | Los Angeles | 1 – 4pm     * Wednesday Dec. 1st | Da Flora | 701 Columbus Ave | San Francisco | 1 – 4pm     Please R.S.V.P. (650) 941-4699 or frank@bluedanubewine.com – trade and media only     Contact us if you are unable to join us. We will be happy to schedule a tasting appointment with you.     Cheers and see you soon,     All of us at Blue Danube Wine Company

A full program during the month of November.

It is our pleasure to announce that the one and only Hungarian restaurant in Los Angeles, Maximilian's is celebrating the Hungarian Heritage Month in November. There will be a series of cultural events, dances and music, special menus, and of course: Hungarian wines. Please see Maximilian's web site for more information.          We invite all of you to a special tasting event with a superlative line-up of wines at Maximilian's on Sunday, November 28th from 2 to 5pm. On this day we will present for the first time our new arrivals from Hungary. We are convinced that our Hungarian portfolio has never been better and is really showcasing what this ancient wine country has to offer: Taste with us the first organic Kekfrankos made by the Pfneiszl sister. Another premier in the U.S. is the spicy Kadarka from Eszterbauer in Szekszard. From the red wine paradise Villany we'll pour wines from wine maker super star Attila Gere, including his famous KOPAR. And from Tokaj we'll bring the dry and sweet wines from top estate Patricius. These fine wines will please everybody and they demonstrate that quality wine production is back and alive in Hungary!

Portfolio for the trade - 25 Grapes for consumers.

We are very happy to bring our wines after San Francsico and Los Angeles, now to San Diego. Together with our friends from Vinos Unico who are importing Spanish and Portuguese wines we are inviting you to two tasting events on Monday, October 25th at 3rd Corner Wine Shop and Bistro.          The first one from 2 to 4pm is called 'Portfolio' and is addressed to the trade. The second one is open to the public from 5 to 7pm. We call it '25 Grapes you have never tasted before.'          You are invited to explore with us new and exciting grapes with unique tasty flavors. Both events are not to be missed. We are looking forward to see you there.

Lou loves 3 Liter Batič.

One of our early supporters, Lou Amdur of LOU on Vine has always been one of my favorite people to work with. His love of wine and food extends far beyond his sensitive nose, palate. Tasting with Lou is more history, science, farming and people than strawberries and tannins. As a space LOU is intimate, slightly psychedelic and smells good, it attracts a whole host of interesting food and wine affiliated individuals oftentimes to dine and sometimes to host events. Coincidentally “A Feast for Ed Behr” editor of “The Art of Eating” was to be held the same day as our follow up tasting of all of the Croatian samples from our trip this summer with our partners Empty Glass. All of us really wanted to go to the Ed Behr dinner; the guy is kind of a legend. Thankfully Lou offered to let us hold the tasting there before hand so that we could.     In 3 hours we tasted 60 wines that ranged from international varietals produced in a global style to obscurities like the white grape Gegic. Lou tasted most everything and at the same time readied the restaurant for the dinner, wrote feverishly on his laptop and make astute observations of the wines. Part of what makes Lou a great taster is his openness. He does not prejudge. After looking very serious and saying little during an expansive line up of concentrated Plavc Mali we asked what he thought of them. He liked the way the slightly off dry quality in some balanced their rustic charms. This was music to my ears. The powerfully flavored Plavac grown on the ocean vineyards of Peljesac have long been tempered by a gentle sweetness. Dry examples can be found and they have their place but with Croatia so eager to reach out to the world if we (importers and buyers) fail to embrace the typical styles, run the risk of homogenizing what is unique and indigenous. Thankfully Lou is a junkie for the indigenous.     Dinner started with a refreshing intermezzo of sparkling unfiltered Cabernet Franc (the aperitif for the rest of the crowd). Some of our favorite people from the trade were also in attendance as enthusiastic guests, Mike Green from Woodland Hills Wine Company, wine PR consultant Dan Fredman, and French wine importer Charles Neal to name a few. It is rare to see such a crowed at a public event. Would be dinners take note - LOU is the choice of some discriminating folks. Before the simple delicious creations of chef DJ and Lou’s subtle pairings started rolling out Ed Behr spoke. A gentle but curious personality with palpable energy, he painted a truncated (his own word), but beautiful world of food and place and how they have shaped his life. What was clear was that he loved food and was in a room full of people who also loved food the mood was electric.     Where else other than LA can one find a place like LOU. None come to mind. Culture is hard to identify, it is a moving target but between the locally sourced food, far reaching selection of wines, thoughtfully informed guests and industry professionals dinning together, sharing food, wine and ideas, culture could be felt. In a dingy strip mall on Vine near Melrose in Hollywood, USA culture flourishes.     Thank you LOU

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