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A Bit About Plavac Mali

Posted 06 30 2008 by miquel    0 Comments
 
Plavac Mali grapes ripening towards the end of summer on the island of Hvar.
Plavac Mali grapes ripening towards the end of summer on the island of Hvar.
So, what is Plavac Mali? Where is Plavac Mali? How do you even say, Plavac Mali? Let's take a look at all of these items as we delve in detail into this particular grape.
    Plavac Mali (pronounced Plahvahts Mahlee) is a red grape varietal that is native to Croatia and more specifically, native to Southern Dalmatia. This is a strip of land that has Bosnia Herzegovina to the east and the Adriatic Sea to the west. It gets an obscene amount of sun throughout the year, so Plavac Mali is a happy grape to have Dalmatia as it's home.
dingac
The rugged karst of the Dingač wine region.
    By far and away, Plavac Mali is the dominant red grape in Dalmatia. Others like Merlot, Shiraz, and a number of minor native grapes pop up here and there, but inevitably, if you see a field of red wine grapes, they will be Plavac Mali. It wasn't always this way though. Many, many years ago, there was another grape that enjoyed the Dalmatia summers which was called, Crljenak Kaštelanski. It has since been discovered that this wine is one and the same with Zinfandel in California and Primitivo in Italy. It just happened that as history went, Crljenak Kaštelanski didn't have the staying power of Plavac Mali and it's actually the case that while the Croatians loved the taste of Crljenak Kaštelanski, it can be a tricky grape to grow in the area. Thusly, they crossbred it with Dobričić and Plavac Mali was the outcome, which has grown far and wide over the rugged karst that forms the Croatian Adriatic Coast.
    As to how Plavac Mali tastes, there isn't any one way to describe it. It varies whether it was grown in the north, the south, the mainland, the islands, or even by different neighbors. When grown in more of a New World, California style, it can pick up Zinfandel qualities, being a very deep, intensely flavorful wine full of fruit in the front of it. When grown in the traditional manners, the wine is a good deal lighter. The body isn't as thick and the finish can be very smooth. This allows it to be paired very well with meals.
    My personal preference for the wine are the years where the vines get a great deal of sun with little to no rain. 2007 was a year such and the wines that I tasted in Dalmatia last year as they were aging showed all the signs of being strong, flavorful, and extremely welcoming to those of us accustomed to New World characteristics. Even still, the winemakers of Croatia tend to hold back a bit and at around 14% alcohol at most, the Plavac Malis we'll be seeing will pair better with most any meal than the California Zinfandels that can sometimes hit 19%.
    If you're curious to taste this for yourself, check out Plavac Mali today.
Tags: croatia    plavac mali   

 

Good Words on Slovenian Wines

Posted 06 01 2008 by elia    0 Comments
 
One of the best wine blogs on the net.
One of the best wine blogs on the net.
Alder over at Vinography just wrote a great article summing up the merits of a number of the Slovenian wines we carry. Some of his favorites included, 2005 Kogl "Mea Culpa", 1999 Batić Reserve Pinot Gris, and 2004 Batić Pinot Gris Riserva. He went on to elicit, "Any wine lover who enjoys white wines I strongly urge to seek out some Slovenian wine and give it a try." Don't take our word for it though and read his entire article. It's a great summation of the Slovenian wine industry and the very high quality wines that they are producing and we are happy to import.
    Probably the only thing we'd add is that Slovenian is not just about the whites. There are a great many reds that we feel warrant a lingering, enjoyable tasting.
Tags: slovenia    wine blogs   

 

Jamón, Prosciutto, and Pršut

Posted 05 15 2008 by miquel    0 Comments
 
A plate of jamón in a restaurant in northern Catalonia, Spain.
A plate of jamón in a restaurant in northern Catalonia, Spain.
When it comes to a meat that is enjoyed across the Mediterranean, forms of cured pork have spread far and wide. Jamón, prosciutto, and pršut from Spain, Italy, and Croatia, respectively are all similar to some degree, yet share some differences from one another. As to which is the best, that's not a question to get in to with anyone from one of these three countries as they will always believe that theirs is the best. The most democratic approach is to say that they are all really good and they are best enjoyed within the countries where they are made.
    Jamón is stunningly delicious and is pretty much only available in Spain. Export out of Spain is nearly non-existent because the Spanish wisely keep their prized meat safely at home. But when in Spain, it can readily be found and should be had in great quantities once found. When it comes to wines, many people fall prey to the old rule of white with pork and while a white such as Verdejo tastes wonderful with some nice slices of jamón, reds pair with it equally as well due to its heavier qualities. If one is looking for a good red, give Garnatxa (Grenache) a try. Its light qualities go quite well with the jamón and make for a delicious meal with some Manchego thrown in to balance out the palate.
    Prosciutto is nothing new to those outside Italy. The Italians export it in great amounts and when paired with a Chardonnay, Pinela, Pošip, or a Zinfandel (or perhaps Primitivo in Italy), the imbiber will be in heaven. Despite the many similarities to jamón prosciutto is indeed different though and in my opinion leans more towards being enjoyed with a white. The buttery tones are so soft that a heavy red easily trounces them and defeats the purpose of having the prosciutto in the first place.
prsut
Istrian pršut with olive oil and nuts.
    Then there's the pršut. This cured meat found in Croatia and other regions of the Balkans is very, very similar to prosciutto, thus the nearly similar name. Pršut is often smoked, giving a much more distinct flavor than the generally unsmoked variants. Croats will tell you that there are a great many differences from the Italian types, but at their core, they really are the same meat and both delicious. True to its origins though, pršut pairs very well with the wines in Croatia. Whether it's a Pošip, Malvazija, or even a Plavac Mali, wine and pršut are great friends. Pošip and Malvazija are always a winning combination for a few slices of pršut and some Paški Sir (cheese from the island of Pag), but the Plavac is just as good when the mood strikes. It's one of the beauties of Plavac in that is pairs well with foods, especially new arrivals like the Lirica that we've started carrying.
    So, which combination is best? I'm just not going to touch that subject and risk a lynching. They are all good and it's up to people to find which they like best. For those in the US, this is probably going to mean pairing something with a prosciutto because it's just so much easier to find, although Jamón Iberico can be found in very limited amounts these days from a few importers. Unfortunately genuine Croatian pršut hasn't reached the US yet and the Croats, much like the Spaniards are probably happy to keep as much of it as possible at home.
Tags: croatia    food    italy    spain   

 

Croatian Cuisine & Wines at Del Monte

Posted 04 13 2008 by elia    0 Comments
 
Del Monte Restaurant is in Sunnyvale, CA
Del Monte Restaurant is in Sunnyvale, CA
Since coming back from our trip to Southeastern Europe last summer, we haven't had the chance to eat any dishes from the region as San Francisco is lacking in restaurants specializing in Balkan cuisine. Fortunately, for all of us Ćevapčići lovers in the Bay Area there is Del Monte Restaurant in downtown Sunnyvale, on Murphy Avenue.
    Del Monte, in spite of the name, is a 100% Croatian family business: Mate Slade, the head of the family, usually can be found in the kitchen doing what he loves best, while his wife Dragica can be found in the restaurant greeting the guests who all seem to know her, alongside her son who serves the tables.
interior
The interior of Del Monte
Originally from Dubrovnik, they came to California some 25 years ago by way of Louisiana, New Orleans and Washington D.C.
    We recently had dinner for the first time at Delmonte with some relatives, and so we got to try almost everything in their menu. Although the decor is lacking in sophistication, it has a Croatian feel to it as well as a family atmosphere that we enjoyed together with the big plates of food.
    Since the Slades are from Dubrovnik on the Dalmatian coast, we started with a Dalmatian platter of pršut (cured ham similar to Italian prosciutto), olives, Dalmatian cheese and anchovies in olive oil. Since they have a number of seafood and fish dishes, we decided to try some of them: fried calamari, mussels marinara, sole Dalmatian style and chicken with prawns. They even have linguine with different shellfish and calamari on a tomato sauce, which was very tasty.
    
cevapi
The Ćevapčići plate
They also offer meat dishes more typical of continental Croatia, such as different types of steak, a plate of mixed meats, or a delicious Goulash Croatian style which is one of their most popular dishes. However, our favorite dish was, of course, the Ćevapčići plate: pieces of minced meat made of a mix of different types of beef and pork, hand mixed and then grilled with a side of ajvar (red bell pepper spread). Heavenly meat.
    To accompany this Croatian feast we needed to have Croatian wine, so we ordered a red and a white from their wine list: a Debit from Bibich that paired really well with the sole, and a Plavac from the Dingač Winery that we enjoyed as always with all sorts of meat. And, although we were too full to have a dessert, we couldn't resist finishing this perfect Croatian meal with a small glass of delicious Prošek, the nectar of the Gods!
Tags:     california    croatia    restaurants   

 

2008 American Wine Blog Winners Announced

Posted 04 01 2008 by elia    0 Comments
 
Two of the American Wine Blog Award winners
Two of the American Wine Blog Award winners
Winners of the second annual American Wine Blog Awards were announced yesterday by Tom Wark who writes the wine blog Fermentation and who started them two years ago to give recognition to dedicated wine bloggers and stimulate new ones to start.
    Among the winners we found one of our favourite wine blogs, San Francisco's acclaimed Vinography by Alder Yarrow, who won the awards for best overall wine blog and best wine blog writing. Not only is Vinography an excellent source of information and inspiration on restaurants and wine bars in San Francisco, but he has also reviewed several Austrian and Slovenian wines in the past, as well as one of our favourite Croatia whites, Bibich's Debit. We strongly suspect that he's been getting more into Croatian and Slovenian wines lately, since he celebrated the award with a bottle of Malvazija from Koper (perhaps by Santomas?).
    Other winners of the American Wine Blog Awards included Good Wine Under $20 (best wine review blog and best single subject blog), Tablas Creek (best winery blog), The Wine Collector (best wine business blog), Chateau Petrogasm (best wine blog graphics), and Grape Radio (best wine podcast/video blog).
awb
The coveted award
Grape Radio is an excellent podcast (an online audio blog) that a while back devoted a very interesting show (click here to listen to it) to the Hungarian winery Disznókő, which produces really good quality Tokaji (such as this one or this one).
    Twenty-four blogs in eight categories made it to the finals for the awards. Nominations were made by voters, and then winnowed down by a panel of 6 judges, followed by a vote of both the public and the judges to determine the winners. The public's tally got 70 percent of the weighting, with 30% of the voting power given to the judges. According to Wark, the judges were Jack Everitt, of the Fork & Bottle blog; Dan Fredman, of Dan Fredman Public Relations; Steve Heimoff, Wine Enthusiast Magazine's West Coast editor; Derrick Schneider, Obsession With Food blogger; Wolfgang Webber, Wine & Spirits Magazine's associate editor and blogger, and Tori Wilder, of Wilder PR.
    Tom Wark, who said that currently there are more than 700 American Wine blogs, commented on the winners: "Anyone who has been paying attention to the development of the world of wine blogs will likely recognize the winners of the 2008 American Wine Blog Awards. They represent a variety of things in this world: The Standard, The Expert, The Innovators, The Dedicated".
    For a more detailed description of all the winners, check the announcement, or if you're curious to see who the finalists were for each catergory, here's the complete list, which will provide you with a lot of good wine reading.
Tags: hungary    slovenia    wine blogs    wine news   

 

Discovering the Paso Robles Wine Country

Posted 03 22 2008 by elia    3 Comments
 
Vineyards in Paso Robles at sunset.
Vineyards in Paso Robles at sunset.
Last weekend more than 90 wineries participated in the 2008 Paso Robles Zinfandel Festival, which included an array of special events such as winemaker dinners, food pairings, seminars, open houses, a live auction and special tastings. Although (unfortunately) this year we didn't make it to the festival, we recently had the opportunity to visit Paso Robles Wine Country and to enjoy some of the region's fine wines.
logo
    Paso Robles is located on California's central coast, halfway between San Francisco and Los Angeles. Paso Robles has a long history of winemaking and grape growing beginning in 1797 when the first wine grapes were introduced by the Franciscan missionaries at the historic Mission San Miguel Arcangel. The Padres produced wine for sacramental purposes and made brandy for export. After Mexico secularized the California missions in the 1840s the vineyards were abandoned until European immigrant farmers started to arrive in the 1860s, following California's independence in 1850.
    Today, Paso Robles is California's third largest and fastest growing wine region, with over 26,000 acres of vineyards (more on Paso Robles Wine Country history can be found here). Cabernet Sauvignon is the leading variety for the Paso Robles appellation, accounting for 38 percent of the region's planted wine grape acreage. After that the most widely planted varieties are Merlot, Syrah, Chardonnay, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Sauvignon Blanc. With Italian, Spanish and Rhône varieties on the upswing, more than 40 other varieties with 300 to less than an acre are planted in the region.
paso3
At Castoro Cellars
    In the last decade, Paso Robles has seen an increase from 35 to nearly 170 wineries, of which about two-thirds produce less than 5,000 cases.
    Among the few wineries that we visited during our brief passage through Paso Robles, we can recomend Eagle Castle, ensconced in a real modern-day castle. Founded in 2000 by Paso Robles natives Gary and Marylou Stemper with the motto "A royal experience", Eagle Castle produces an award-winning Viogner, a rosé and a few interesting reds. Our favourite was the recently released 2004 Zinfandel, a bold red with peppery notes both in the nose and the body, as well as a strong jammy flavor and a smooth finish.
    Another winery that we particularly enjoyed was Castoro Cellars who produces, in their own words, "dam fine wines". Established in 1983 by Niels and Bimmer Udsen, the name refers to Niels' long-time nickname "Beaver", which became "Il Castoro" (beaver in Italian) when he was working in Italy. In the span of a dozen years, Castoro Cellars has gone from making a few barrels of wine for family and friends in a rented corner of someone else’s winery to a production of around 40,000 at present. They produce half a dozen whites, about twenty reds and a couple of dessert wines. We were lucky to taste a good number of their wines, including their 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon blend which was so easy to drink that we took a couple of bottles home. We also enjoyed their affordable Muscat Canelli, a perfect match for a fruity dessert or just to sip in the terrace at any time.
    For those of us who missed the Zinfandel Festival, on May 16-18th Paso Robles will be hosting their 26th Wine Festival, which will be a great opportunity to discover this fast-growing wine region or to explore it further. Cheers!
    
paso2
Entering the castle of Eagle Castle Winery.
Tags: california    paso robles    usa    zinfandel   

 

'Slovenia? Wild, wild wines'

Posted 01 31 2008 by elia    0 Comments
 
times
The article in the Los Angeles Times.
Yesterday's article by Corie Brown in the L.A. Times, From Slovenia? Wild, wild wines speaks enthusiastically of wines from Slovenia, a region that "is getting hotter by the minute". The article highlights the boldness of Slovenian winemakers, who are young, experimenting and obtaining some really good results. Revered wine expert expert Jancis Robinson is quoted to have said after her recent trip to Slovenia:
    "They are quite anarchic and individual in their use of oak and, to my mind, are making more distinctive wines than most of their neighbors in [Italy's] Friuli."
    Brown also spoke to Pieter Verheyde, head sommelier at Bastide in West Hollywood, one of the best restaurants in the Los Angeles area that have embraced Slovenian wines in their wine list. For Verheyde, "they're lively and complex with unexpected flavors", and bring diversity to Bastide's 1,400 label list. He pairs the Santomas Malvazija with a ceviche of scallops, the Refošk with dry aged beef, and the Movia Pinot Noir with Hawaiian sea bass. It all sounds delicious.
    The two winemakers that the article talks most about are also the most famous ones in the US. Aleš Kristiančić from Movia is one of the biggest producers in Slovenia, with a production of 10,000 cases of wine a year from 57 acres of vineyards that would be considered tiny by American standards. Movia, established in 1970, is also the oldest private winery in the country and has been selling wines to the US for almost 10 years.
    Another famous Slovenian winemaker is Joško Gravner whose wines, according to Silver Lake Wine co-owner George Cossette, have introduced many adventurous enthusiasts to Slovenian wines. Gravner is the one that started the amphora project - in which Gravner ferments his wines in clay jugs buried up to their necks in the ground in homage to ancient Roman tradition. "Gravner is stripping away the human intervention to create minimalist art," Cossette says.
    The article concludes saying that although not many Americans know where Slovenia is, let alone its wines, selling them requires more time than with other wines, and customers need to taste the wines and take the time to get to know them. But it is that sense of discovery, of adventure, that makes them so exciting.
    If you haven't had the chance to try Slovenian wines, or if you are not convinced yet, the L.A. Times article came with extensive tasting notes of a great selection of both whites and reds, including some that you can get through Blue Danube Wines:
    -2004 Batic Pinot Gris Reserve: "A weird and wonderful wine from Vipava, with delicate aromas of sesame seeds, herbs and wildflowers. It has good acidity and a lingering fresh apple finish".
    -2004 Santomas Malvazija: "From the Koper district in Primorska, a richly aromatic wine with a round mouth feel, zippy fresh pineapple and other tropical fruit flavors".
    -2005 Guerila Pinela: "From the Vipava district in Primorska, a delicate honey-toned wine with stony Chablis-like minerality".
    -2003 Kogl Magna Dominica Albus: "A blend of equal parts Auxerrois, Riesling and Yellow Muskat, this wine has inviting peach aromas and a taste of honey".
Tags: gravner    malvasia    movia    pinot noir    press    refosk    slovenia   

 

Finding The Hidden Vine

Posted 12 19 2007 by miquel    0 Comments
 
Yes, it is indeed hidden, but you can find it.
Yes, it is indeed hidden, but you can find it.
The Hidden Vine is a perfectly-named wine bar in San Francisco. Sitting on the edges of Nob Hill, The Tenderloin, and Union Square, owners and master hosts, Angela and David Cahill pour wines for the masses with, what cannot be stated in any better terms than "down home" hospitality. Amazingly, no matter how busy it is on any given night, you will always feel like you are their only guest and they are very excited to show you what new wines they have that month. Ah yes, that's an important element to their wine bar that's always fun in that they feature a different region each month to taste, so in addition to their wine list always being updated and tweaked, returning guests can enjoy something brand new, 12 times a year. But more on this in a little bit.
    The history of their wine bar starts back on the East Coast. David and Angela bopped around New Jersey, Maryland, and North Carolina for awhile. It was in Chapel Hill that they encountered the West End Wine Bar. They had great times there and liked the whole setup of the place. They had had the idea to work in wine for some time and so they came out to the West Coast with this idea in mind.
bottles
Bottles and candles get along
    In February, 2005, they officially opened up their doors as, The Hidden Vine. With all of the wine bars sprouting up in San Francisco that seem to be some play on 'vine', 'wine', 'uva', or the like, the name may seem too clever for its own good to those who haven't visited the bar. But, it is true that they are rather hidden, basically in the basement of the The Fitzgerald Hotel, their main entrance being on Cosmo Alley (pictured above) right across from Le Colonial. It's definitely a cozy space, where groups over five are tricky to fit in, but they make it work exceptionally well, bedecking it in big overstuffed chairs and nice, warm colors that ask you to sit, be mellow and have a glass with friends. And as they say on their website, their focus is to have it be low-key. You never have to shout over your glass of wine to your companions sitting next to you.
    But cozy, "speakeasy-esque" setting aside, it is really the choice of wines that make this bar, and it is where the real enjoyment begins with The Hidden Vine. Their regular menu always has stellar choices in both glasses and bottles, covering an array of prices, regions, and varietals, both in the old and the new world. However, it is their featured regions of the month where the fun is for anyone who visits their wine bar regularly (such as the author of this article...), which gives them an opportunity to try wines and varietals from regions that they might have never tried before. For instance, I was in no hurry to try the wines of Washington State only to be pleasantly surprised at the selection of whites and reds that the duo of Cahill and Cahill chose for that month.
people
Lounging at the Vine
    Some of the regions that have been featured in over their nearly three years in the business include: Germany, New Zealand, North Eastern Spain, Portugal, Southern Italy, South Australia, West Australia, Oregon, Argentina, Bordeaux, and Austria to name just a few. The last of which, Blue Danube supplied a number of tasty vintages for. Currently, they are featuring wines from Hungary, Slovenia, Croatia, and Montenegro, which Blue Danube has been happily supplying. People have been enjoying the likes of the Törley as well as Batić, Dingač, Kozlović, and Plantaže. They tell me that people have been very interested in the wines overall and greatly enjoying the Kozlović Malvazija and Törley Fortuna while excitedly learning about the link of Californian Zinfandel to the Dingač Plavac Mali that they're pouring. For those interested to partake, they will continue to pour through all of December and possibly in to January when they do a recap of their favorite wines for the year.
    These wines they have selected are not the standard fare found in other wine bars and when asked why they decided to choose these wines now, Angela said that they like to balance out traditional regions with those that are new for most people or being discovered.
glasses
Wine in our favorite spot in The Hidden Vine: The Nook.
This set of wines from Eastern Europe are giving them a jumping off point for possibly more in the future. Speaking of the future, some of the regions regulars have to look forward to in 2008 might include a return to Austria, another part of Spain, and maybe some other US States.
    So, at their essence, The Hidden Vine is a wine bar that continues to have great service, great wines, great cheese/meat plates, and blindingly good olives (which seem to be impossible to find in other places). When asked if they had any far-ranging plans for the future other than these consistently great goals, David simply said, "Nope." which is the best thing any of us could ever hope for.
Tags: croatia    hungary    montenegro    san francisco    slovenia    wine bars   

 

SLO and CRO wines on the air in L.A.

Posted 12 17 2007 by frank    0 Comments
 
george
George at Silverlake Wine
    Wine expert and co-owner George Cossette of Silverlake Wine in Hollywood decants Croatian and Slovenian wines from the Adriatic region for L.A. radio station KCRW. The station aired an interview with him in the show "Good Food" hosted by Evan Kleiman. You can listen to the entire show at the KCRW web site or download the interview only (5MB) as an mp3 file here.
bottles
Croatian & Slovenian bottles
    During a recent Sunday wine tasting, George featured these unique wines in his store and sold almost every bottle in stock.
    Here is the good news: Silverlake Wine has all these nice wines back in stock. So come on down...
Tags: croatia    press    slovenia   

 

Blue Danube Wine Co Shows off its New Wines

Posted 11 16 2007 by miquel    0 Comments
 
A pour for a guest ready to take notes.
A pour for a guest ready to take notes.
Last Monday on November 12th, we hosted a private tasting event for the trade of all our new arrivals.
frank
Frank with wines.
This is a fun time for us because it allows us to share the wines that we've carefully selected to import for the first time with our colleagues in the trade and the media. This event was particularly enjoyable because we had new wines from all areas that Blue Danube Wine Company imports including: Austria, Hungary, Slovenia, Croatia, and Montenegro. The well known Bacar Restaurant and Wine Salon provided a most suitable setting for this tasting event. This restaurant in the heart of SOMA in San Francisco is hip and modern, yet at the same time inviting and warm; a perfect place for sipping exciting new wines amongst others who love wine.
    Joining us for the invited tasting were the wine buyers and sommeliers of local wine shops, restaurants and wine bars as well as wine writers and critics.
list
Checking the list
It was great to see such a diverse crowd because everyone tasted the wines differently and they're all looking for something unique to match whatever exciting plans they have for their wine lists or articles.
    Most people started with the Austrians. Here, we poured the new vintages from Schmelz, Weinrieder, Juris and J.Heinrich. We also introduced two new estates, Bio-Weingut Geyerhof, a leading organic producer in Kremstal and Sommer, an estate from Donnerskirchen at Lake Neusiedel. For those who went to the Hungarian wines next, there was the entire Craftsman line-up from Hilltop and Szõke Mátyás as well as some great new sparkling wines from the traditional house, Törley.
    From Central Europe, guests moved over to the Balkans. They were greeted by our greatly expanded portfolio of Slovenian wines.
food
Some wine accompaniment.
Guests enjoyed tasting many new wines from top Slovenian producers, such as those from Guerila, Santomas, and Batić. One of the biggest hits with this audience clearly was the a new Yellow Muscat from Črnko.
    Lastly, it was on to the Croatian and Montenegrin wines. Several Croatian brands are becoming highly sought after brands, in particular the Kozlović Malvazija and the Marco Polo Pošip for white wines and the Pelješac Dingač and Zlatan Plavac for reds. From newly independent Montenegro, Plantaže is now shipping a "regular", lower cost Vranac in addition to their esteemed Vranac "Pro Corde".
    Overall, it was a very successful tasting that offered a good number of guests their introductory tastes for these ancient wine regions, which is always a fun experience.
Tags: blue danube wine    event    san francisco   

 
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