The BREADBAR Hatchi Series Wine Dinner event was packed! There was literally a "club line" at the reception stand that was about 30 people deep. To see so many people at a mall for an 8 course meal was both surreal and welcoming. BREADBAR Century City regularly hosts a series of dinners that feature guest chefs and sommeliers. This evening, the dinner was managed and featured Chef Michael Voltaggio, the Chef de Cuisine at The Dining Room At The Langham, and a Bravo TV 2009 "Top Chef Las Vegas" Contestant. The beverages were managed by David Haskell, formerly of Bin 8945 Wine Bar.

David included two of of Blue Danube Wine Company's Croatian wines in his varied and textural selection. Take a look at the menu pictured above and the food pictured below. From bubbles to beer, to Sherry to Croatia, the libations that David selected reinforced the whole texture and flavor theme. An audible favorite of the night was the Japanese tomato tartare and 2006 Križevci Winery Graševina. This wine works so well with higher acid vegetable dishes containing plenty of fresh herbs. Here, the wine enhanced the brightness of the herbs and tomatoes. While the dish gave the impression that the wine was much weightier than its modest 11% ABV would suggest. The Crispy Chicken thigh and Deus Flanders Belgian Beer pairing was a tasty diversion mid-meal and did not interfere with any of the wines.

It was followed by the Wagyu Beef Shortrib and 2007 Dingač Vinarija Plavac.The thing about this particular Plavac is that it will honestly go with just about anything. Its dusty tannins and tobacco leaf notes were a cleansing contrast to the luxurious and elegantly sauced beef dish accompanied by a horseradish foam. I also have to mention the Miso cake and sparkling Beaujolais we had. These are ideal mid-summer combination that was simultaneously complex and playful. Los Angeles is the perfect place to enjoy a wide variety of everything. To me, that's what this event was all about. I believe both Chef Michael Voltaggio and David Haskell have a bright future ahead so keep an eye on them.

--Stetson

When it comes to Italian restaurants in San Francisco's North Beach neighborhood, the choices are nearly endless. When it comes to Italian restaurants in the area that are actually good, the list tightens up a great deal. So enters Albona, which is best described as the Italian restaurant in North Beach that is pretty much not Italian nor in North Beach. A simpler way to say that is to call it an Istrian restaurant.     Istria is a peninsula that sticks off the far western corner of Croatia. This wasn't always the case as the region has been under flags of Venice, Italy, and even France for a spell. This is reflected in the cuisine a great deal. While it's easy to call it "Italian-esque" and leave it at that, this would do a heavy disservice to what makes the food unique. It's a crossroads of Central European, Mediterranean, and Slavic foods and you taste that with every bite.     Take for instance the strudel. Yes, that's right, a strudel. Try and find that on an Italian menu! This dish which is oft considered Germanic or Slavic is one of the stars on the Albona menu. But, it's not like your Central European strudel. It has prosciutto, béchamel, a tomato-cream sauce, and a number of seasonings that lend it an extremely unique flavor. It's absolutely delicious and is typical of what Albona offers. The dish is a delicate balance showing the influence of several different cultures.     The menu doesn't stop there and while it has a great selection of pasta and chicken dishes, there are also a few seafood dishes and a veal shank that is delicious as well. You really can't go wrong and the best part is that the foods go well with any number of wines from many places, again showing diversity of the region. In fact, Blue Danube is happy to announce that Albona is going to start pouring our Kozlović Malvazija and Santomas Big Red Refosk which add distinct authentic flavors to their already eclectic wine list.     Albona, much like Istria is a little out of the way, sitting at 545 Francisco, just off Columbus. It's in something of a transitional area between North Beach and Fisherman's Wharf. The beauty of this is that it avoids the cheesy hustle and bustle on Pier 39 as well as a lot of Columbus, while still being very convenient and offering a quieter, classier evening out. Give them a try if you want to sample a much different take on dishes that you've known a long time, as well as getting to know some new ones.

When it comes to a meat that is enjoyed across the Mediterranean, forms of cured pork have spread far and wide. Jamón, prosciutto, and pršut from Spain, Italy, and Croatia, respectively are all similar to some degree, yet share some differences from one another. As to which is the best, that's not a question to get in to with anyone from one of these three countries as they will always believe that theirs is the best. The most democratic approach is to say that they are all really good and they are best enjoyed within the countries where they are made.     Jamón is stunningly delicious and is pretty much only available in Spain. Export out of Spain is nearly non-existent because the Spanish wisely keep their prized meat safely at home. But when in Spain, it can readily be found and should be had in great quantities once found. When it comes to wines, many people fall prey to the old rule of white with pork and while a white such as Verdejo tastes wonderful with some nice slices of jamón, reds pair with it equally as well due to its heavier qualities. If one is looking for a good red, give Garnatxa (Grenache) a try. Its light qualities go quite well with the jamón and make for a delicious meal with some Manchego thrown in to balance out the palate.     Prosciutto is nothing new to those outside Italy. The Italians export it in great amounts and when paired with a Chardonnay, Pinela, Pošip, or a Zinfandel (or perhaps Primitivo in Italy), the imbiber will be in heaven. Despite the many similarities to jamón prosciutto is indeed different though and in my opinion leans more towards being enjoyed with a white. The buttery tones are so soft that a heavy red easily trounces them and defeats the purpose of having the prosciutto in the first place.     Then there's the pršut. This cured meat found in Croatia and other regions of the Balkans is very, very similar to prosciutto, thus the nearly similar name. Pršut is often smoked, giving a much more distinct flavor than the generally unsmoked variants. Croats will tell you that there are a great many differences from the Italian types, but at their core, they really are the same meat and both delicious. True to its origins though, pršut pairs very well with the wines in Croatia. Whether it's a Pošip, Malvazija, or even a Plavac Mali, wine and pršut are great friends. Pošip and Malvazija are always a winning combination for a few slices of pršut and some Paški Sir (cheese from the island of Pag), but the Plavac is just as good when the mood strikes. It's one of the beauties of Plavac in that is pairs well with foods, especially new arrivals like the Lirica that we've started carrying.     So, which combination is best? I'm just not going to touch that subject and risk a lynching. They are all good and it's up to people to find which they like best. For those in the US, this is probably going to mean pairing something with a prosciutto because it's just so much easier to find, although Jamón Iberico can be found in very limited amounts these days from a few importers. Unfortunately genuine Croatian pršut hasn't reached the US yet and the Croats, much like the Spaniards are probably happy to keep as much of it as possible at home.

    It's only after two years of its existence that people start to realize that CAV on Market Street in San Francisco is not only an excellent wine bar, it has a wonderful kitchen to boot. No one would be better suited than SF Chronicle restaurant critique Michael Bauer to attest the superb quality of Executive Chef's Christine Mullen's cuisine. The title of his review entails a double compliment: An accomplished kitchen to match the sublime wine list at CAV.     Well, I feel quite qualified to provide testimony as well: I've recently been back to CAV specifically to check out the menu and can only rave about it. Rather than giving the details away, why don't I leave you with good advise: Sit down and let the good times roll, i.e. tell the knowledgeable and friendly wait staff you want to explore their goodies. Trust me, they will treat you well and nicely pair each of the courses as they arrive on your table. Give it a try, you'll love it.     Not to be outdone by her culinary colleague, Wine Director Pamela Busch continued garnering additional awards to her already long list. This time it was California's oldest magazine for Good Living that bestowed on her the title Sunset Magazine's Best Wine Bar in the Bay Area     Let me finish by disclosing that we have been supplying CAV with our wine selections from Day One. We are very proud that our wines are choosen to participate in the stellar line-up of wine and food at CAV. You can get a taste of our wines by ordering their Slovenian Wine Flight. As I post this entry some very fine selections from this small alpine country at the Adriatic Sea are on tap until Labor Day.