We are looking forward to our new Dalmatian container, which is coming at the end of the month. It contains a restock of Brkić Plava Greda 2015, a wine that was just reviewed by wine blogger Nenad Trifunović, founder of the leading Croatian wine blog Dnevnik Vinopije (Diary of the Wine-Drinker):
At first, there is a complete lack of common fruit sensations. The fruitful youth is peppermint, almost like a puffy Schioppettina … and completely earthy…Fully dry and succulent at 12.10% alc, more expressive and more durable than any other Blatina. I do not want to mention quality anymore compared to quantity … I want to talk about the beauty of the extract.
Uncompromising as the words on the label: I will make wines like this or I will not make them at all.
When French eonologist Stéphanie Berecz founded Kikelet Pince with her husband Zsolt in Tarcal, Tokaj, she wanted a name that was easy to write and pronounce. She chose Kikelet, which means springtime in Hungarian or more literally “out-waking” (“ki” meaning “out”, “kel” is “to wake up” so “kelet” is technically “waking”).
Kikelet refers to that moment when the young buds open up and the first spring flowers start blooming as the snow melts. Stéphanie told us when we visited the winery some years ago that she was enchanted by the fact that there was a Hungarian word for this moment and that she named the winery after it.
So Spring is in the air and we start craving for brighter, more fruit-forward wines that can be paired with green salads, spring vegetables and fresh fruits. Kikelet’s Hárslevelű and Furmint wines are delicious Springtime wines, quite mineral and savory and full of stony fruit flavors. Also from Hungary, the Gilvesy Bohém Cuvée is a fragrant and zingy blend of Olaszrizling, Pinot Gris, Rhine Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc, the Gallay Bistronauta White (60% Pinot blanc, 40% Zenit) is an aromatic and easy going bistro wine, and the Pfneiszl Zefir is a refreshing white with some herbal and spicy notes. The Bibich Debit from Northern Dalmatia and the Carić Bogdanjuša from the island of Hvar are light-bodied and crisp sippers that will give you an early taste of Summer. And then from Slovenia, the Štoka Teran Rosé, Martinčič Pinot Noir Rosé and Santomas LNG Refošk are bright, juicy, and low tannins wines. So pop the cork and fire up the grill, it’s Springtime!
Spitzerberg (German for “Pointy Mountain”), is one of those best plots. This “Mountain” is actually a leftover shoreline from an ancient sea, a 300-meter-high outcropping of limestone South of the Danube in Lower Austria, near the Slovenian border. And it’s perfect for Blaufränkisch, an early budding, late ripening, grape that needs a long growing season to ripen fully.
Dorli Muhr enlisted Douro legend, Dirk Niepoort, to help re-establish her family’s old Spitzerberg Blaufränkisch. Today the vines are at least 50 years old and farmed organically. They vinify using some whole clusters and foot stomping, and without additives (even sulfur) or cultured yeasts, pump-overs or modern tools. The wines are finished with two years in used barrels.
Muhr-Van Der Niepoort, Spitzerberger 2012:
These grapes managed to hang on the vines until October! This crazy long hang time and wild temperature swings towards the end make for a fully ripe but still super-refreshing counterpoint to Samt & Seide, with rich yet tart fruit. Six years on, tertiary umami notes are starting to complement the primary fruit.
“These are little gems that crystalize their unique terroir,” conclude the folks at Flatiron. Clearly, this pointy mountain is also magic.
It’s hard to believe that it was three years ago this month that Blue Danubians Eric and Frank were inducted to the illustrious Confrérie de Tokaj at a ceremony during the Great Tokaj Wine Auction. This year, the 2018 Great Tokaj Wine Auction is on Saturday April 21th at the Great Synagogue in Tokaj. It will feature more than 30 wines including dry Furmint, sweet and dry Szamorodni, and Aszú from Barta, Bodrog Borműhely, Füleky, Kikelet, Patricius, and Samuel Tinon. A percentage of the proceeds will be used to invest in the next auction and for the benefit of the Tokaj wine region.
The Confrérie de Tokaj was formed in 2012 by 100 founding members —many of whom are winemakers — to promote the wines and gastronomy of the Tokaj wine region. The Confrérie organized the first Great Tokaj Wine Auction in 2013 featuring exclusive lots of high quality wine for sale at the auction.
If you’d like to participate to this extraordinary event and taste some rare and unique wines, you can check the program and register here.
Peter Wetzer was working in the wine industry in Austria, commuting from Sopron, Hungary, when he decided to reclaim his homeland’s past: until 1921, Sopron was the capital of Burgenland, a wine region where powerful Blaufränkisch dominates.
In 2007, Peter purchased 2.5 hectares of vineyards, looking for healthy soils, flora and fauna, that he could farm organically. Today, the estate is completely organic and everything is done by hand with minimum intervention in the vineyard and in the family’s 120 year-old cellar.
His Kékfrankos is sourced from 25-60 year-old vines growing on a mixture of clay, red gravel, limestone, and loess. The wine is fermented with native yeasts with no other additives, then aged in used Hungarian barrels before being bottled with no fining or filtration.
After a long stretch of wet weather, Northern California is finally heating up. The hills are green with bright patches of orange poppies, purple lupine and yellow mustard flowers. It’s finally springtime and for our friend Marcy Gordon, it’s time to open a sunny and bright Bibich Sangreal Merlot:
Spring is here and I decided to open a Bibich Sangreal that I’ve been hoarding for a while to pair with a mushroom polenta dish.
At first, I thought Uh Oh..,I’ve held it too long. Then about 8 minutes later it was all…Ahhh….Yes!! It’s got that tell-tale Croatian salinity and that almost indescribable smell (a cross between a sunny beach and a lavender sage martini ) a Mediterranean garrigue that is undeniably Croatian.
First taste was almost lemony and sour cherry.
But upon opening, the body softens, the tannins unclench and it releases a pleasant bright cherry flavor (still a tad sour) along with notes of blackberry, mocha, and earth. The complexity of the region comes into play with a touch of thyme and mint and that sotto voce salinity.
Merlot—it’s not just for breakfast anymore!
It seems Merlot is on the rise again and if you are looking to explore some off the beaten track regions —Croatia is a great place to start. And Bibich Sangreal should be on your list.
We’re excited that a new shipment of wines from Bibich, Miloš and other Croatian producers is coming soon to the US so stay tuned! And for now, if you want to learn more about Croatian wines, follow Marcy.
Géza was one of the first winemakers of Romania who realized, immediately after the revolution, the importance of the quality of the whole range of his wines. Visiting Bella Géza’s Princess Winery is a refreshing surprise. This bright, modern winery, founded in 1999 and designed to welcome the large number of wine tourists who visit every weekend, nestles at the foot of a range of hills overlooking the river Mures.
Dr. Géza Balla is an Hungarian-Romanian from Minis, a old wine district in western Romania on the Hungarian border, that was part of the historical region of Transylvania.
Fluent in both languages, his wines reflect the two cultures. He is found equally at home amongst Romanian wine producers as well as being a member of the prestigious Hungarian Wine Academy. Of his 105ha, he produces 80% red wines, 20% white and somewhere in-between some rosé wines. A few international varieties are present (Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot) but the focus is on the traditional varieties of the Carpathian basin: Feteasca Regala, the local Mustoasa de Măderat, and the red Feteasca Neagra.
Balla Geza is one of Romania’s top producers whose mission is to put the country back on the wine map and restore the prestige of the Minis appellation which was once as famous as Hungary’s Tokaj. This intriguing bottling is made of the native Romanian grape Mustoasa De Maderat and resembles the floral aromas and plush, peachy fruit you might see in Alsatian Pinot Blancs. Slightly pink in hue due to some time spent on the skins, this was fermented with wild yeasts and brought up in stainless steel.
Géza, concludes Elizabeth Gabay, is restoring the reputation of the Minis wine region, “giving his range of wines a Romanian, or dare I say it, Transylvanian, character and not a vampire in sight.”
You can read Elizabeth Gabay’s whole article here.
Simon and the Savor The Experience team will take you first to the hilly vineyards of the cross-border wine appellation called Collio in Italy and Brda in Slovenia (Italian and Slovenian words for ‘hill’), visiting small artisan wineries and learning about the region’s traditional orange and natural winemaking.
In addition to Brda and Collio, the tour takes you to Slovenia’s lush Vipava Valley, the stoney Karst region, and ends with a day trip to Croatia’s Istrian peninsula.
Besides meeting with the winemakers and tasting their production, you’ll be able to experience the delicious local cuisine and artisanal products such as olive oil, prosciutto, vinegar, cheese and truffle.
Austria is now home to some of the best organic winemakers. We’re proud to represent the very gifted Ilse Maier of Weingut Geyerhof and Dorli Muhr of Muhr-van der Niepoort.
Thanks to the leadership of Ilse Maier, Weingut Geyerhof in Oberfucha, Kremstal, has been organic since 1988. Ilse Maier’s family has lived in the wine village of Oberfucha since the 16th century and for Ilse, it became vital to preserve the biodiversity surrounding the village, not only for the vineyards but also for the wildlife and farm animals.
In the vineyards, Ilse and her son Josef are working hard to keep the vines healthy and the soil loose and nicely moist underneath. They farm without using any pesticides, insecticides or weed control material. Clover is planted in every other row to naturally increase nitrogen in the soil, compost is used to nourish the plants, and the local wildlife is welcome.
To save the grasslands around the village from overgrowth, the family is even raising cattle, which provide meat and milk and also manure for the fields. Maria Maier, Ilse’s daughter in-law, comes from a beekeeping family. She has started beekeeping in the vineyards. The bees are healthy and thriving thanks to the absence of pesticides in the surrounding fields.
Geyerhof produces distinctive Grüner Veltliner wines from different vineyards, all reflecting a diversity of terroirs. StockWerk, from granulite and tertiary gravel is low in alcohol (11.6%), lively, light and fruity. Rosensteig, from a vineyard on a slope near the Danube with alluvial soil and gravels, is mineral, spicy, with very good acidity. Steinleithn, from a stony and mostly infertile vineyard, is aromatic, elegant and concentrated.
Geyerhof also makes a delicate, low alcohol, red Zweigelt from a cool site and a vibrant Riesling from a rocky vineyard on the northwestern edge of the estate.
In Carnuntum — a old wine-growing region east of Vienna named after a major Roman city on the Danube — the Muhr-van der Niepoort estate is transitioning to become certified organic. Austrian Dorli Muhr, together with Portuguese Dirk Niepoort, resuscitated her family vineyards and she is now working on re-establishing the historic limestone-rich Spitzerberg as a prominent wine district.
The protected nature preserve of the Spitzerberg is an extension of the Little Carpathians mountain range with poor, limestone soils. Although grapes have been growing on its hillsides for centuries thanks to its well-drained soils and its dry climate, hot summers, cold winters, and the influence of the nearby Danube River, its vineyards has been sadly neglected for most of the recent decades.
This terroir is particularly well suited for growing the late-ripening Blaufränkisch and Dorli Muhr has shown that it can produce fresh and elegant red wines, with mouth-watering acidity and fine tannins.
At Muhr-van der Niepoort, farming is organic. All work is done by hand and some grapes are even stomped by foot. The grapes are not treated with any sulphur and no cultured yeast is used. The wines mature in neutral oak.
The Muhr-van der Niepoort Spitzerberg, made from selected old Blaufränkisch plots, is an elegant, terroir-driven wine with fine tannins and a long after-taste.
95 Points for the Muhr-van der Niepoort Spitzerberg 2013 in Wine Enthusiast Magazine: “Very pure and lifted notes of red cherry are held tightly within a taut frame: the nose gives almost nothing away. The palate provides another glimpse of that hauntingly delicious, almost sublimated cherry note. There is something aromatic and pure, unforced and honest about this disarming wine. The structure is subtle but firm, the elegance borders on the Pinot-esque, thus the wine is slender but profound.”
The Samt & Seide (Velvet and Silk) , from vines between 10–30 years old, has a rich smooth texture, fresh fruit aromas, and a lively acidity.
93 Points for the Muhr-van der Niepoort Samt & Seide 2015 in Wine Enthusiast Magazine: “Pure notes of crushed blueberry have a wonderfully tart edge, almost like wild little huckleberries. The same, pure and intense fruit spreads across the textured body where fine and ever so slightly rustic tannins crunch pleasurably. This wine shows the juicy, almost voluptuous ripeness of 2015 without ever losing freshness or tone. This should come with some sort of pleasure warning. Simply delicious. Drink 2018–2025.”
“A lot of dry Furmint is tart, lemony, and not that interesting, but this one is a revelation: it is dense and soil-expressive without sacrificing the variety’s trademark freshness,” writes the SommSelect Wine Team.
Sourced from dry farmed vines growing on basalt-rich volcanic soils, the Apátsági Furmint 2015 is their Sommelier Selected Wine of the day:
Today’s dry and delicious Furmint, from the tiny region of Somló in western Hungary, is the first dry Furmint we’ve offered but hardly the first one I’ve tasted—just one of the very best. It is a game changer: Lots of dry Furmint is dominated by high acidity—acidity which makes the variety so successful and ageworthy as a late-harvest sweet wine—but this one has serious depth, rich texture, and soil character reminiscent of top Alsatian whites. There’s profound minerality from Somló’s basalt-rich volcanic soils and lots of aromatic complexity. It grabbed our attention, and it deserves yours; Somló and Apátsági may be unfamiliar names now, but wines like this are going to change that.
To accompany the wine, they recommend a chicken paprikash, a comforting dish with onions, tomatoes, green peppers, and fragrant with sweet or hot Hungarian paprika and sour cream. It’s a great fit that complements the high acidity and minerality of the wine. Enjoy!