The Philosophy of Kozlović Part 2

Over a summer, two travelers drink their way through the wines of Mediterranean Europe

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Malvazija is always best served cold.

This is a continuation from Part 1 where we discussed the history and thinking behind the wines. Now, let’s get in to the wines properly.

We started with the 2006 Malvazija which is the core wine the Kozlović production. The nose has this nice, soft, lilting grapey set of aromas to it. The body is bright and tones of grapefruit come through on top of everything else. The finish is nice and smooth.

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Gianfranco amongst wines

There is dryness, but it works wonderfully to refresh you. As described elsewhere the color is really lovely on this wine. It’s a nice, pale, beckoning yellow that sits well in your glass on a hot day.

We then moved in to the 2004 Santa Lucia. This is a Malvazija that has a great meaty nose that speaks of pršut, the ham that they eat with great abundance in Croatia. There is light fruit throughout it and a touch of sweet melon aromas as well. It is an incredibly fresh wine, bright and like a meal for the nose. The wine is mixed with 10% of it aged in local oak barrels and the other 90% not aged, so a light balance is achieved with the wine not getting overly woody, but still having a bit of oak spice to it. As you get more air in to it, some honey tones come about in both the nose and the body, which all get stitched together in a nice clean finish.

Gianfranco next poured us the 2006 Muškat. The nose is sweet, but not unduly so and is fitting given that the wine is classified as a half sweet wine. It has a nice leafiness to it and is crisp on the tongue and finishes up well. There is a light sweetness to it that falls down the back of the mouth. We were told the thinking behind the wine was to have a Muškat that could be drank with the meal instead of just once finished as it is usually had.

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The Santa Lucia

Next was the Ruža Rosé which is classified only a ‘stolno’ or table wine. It goes to show that you can’t pick what you want to drink based solely on a classification for the wine is really very good. You almost can’t detect the nose, it’s so soft and subtle. There are very delicate peach tones throughout the entire wine. A tad bit of almond comes across the top with more air. The body is very dry, but has a pleasant hint of sourness to it that works very well. In the finish, it slides back very easily. It’s a very refreshing wine that is a quintessentially perfect end to a meal.

We closed with the Dolcinea. Like the Ruža Rosé, it is also a ‘stolno’ level of wine. It also happens to be a late harvest wine, which means that there is a good deal more sugar in it. Despite this, you are not punched by a glass of sweetness. It is conscientiously delicate and delicious straight out of the bottle without getting a breath of air in it. The nose is this soft, blushing bouquet of aromas with hints of sweetness that all come in the body. It is a very clean wine and refreshing. Again, another perfect wine to finish a meal with.

It was quite a line up of wines that made us thankful we were very close to home after drinking. Gianfranco and his family are making some excellent varietals up in the north and their plans for expansion are both well-balanced and also very fortunate for us as we will hopefully get more of their wines here in the future. For now, try the 2006 Malvazija if you haven’t already. It’s a wonderful example of how well a white wine can be made.

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Inside the Kozlović winery tasting room.