There are still a few days left to celebrate Furmint February, a campaign organized throughout Hungary to promote the Furmint grape variety. Distinctively high in acidity and minerality, Furmint faithfully reflects the volcanic soils of the Tokaj region where it is mostly grown. Traditionally blended with Hárslevelű, it provides the backbone for the sweet Aszú wines. It is also increasingly used alone to produce single-varietal dry wines.
Janos Hajduz and Krisztián Farkas, owners of the Bodrog Borműhely winery, farm tiny vineyard parcels and make single vineyard Furmint and Hárslevelű wines in a pure style that best express the terroir and varietal typicity. The other night, I was tasting their 2011 Lapis Furmint from the Lapis vineyard for dinner. The wine displayed aromas of dried herbs and stone fruits on the nose, and a bright acidity combined with a pronounced minerality on the palate that worked amazingly well with our sauteed Brussel sprouts and lardons. By comparison, their 2011 Hárslevelű Dereszla had greater minerality and less fruity aroma. We really enjoyed it with green olives and thin slices of dry salami.