Bosnia-Herzegovina may not be a country you would associate with ageworthy, distinctive wines. That is probably because you have not tried one of the finest red wines being produced in the country: Brkić Plava Greda. Josip Brkić’s biodynamic vineyards are located in the distinguished Southern Herzegovina region where grape cultivation dates back at least 2,000 years. “Greda” is the name of the vineyard where Josip sources the indigenous Blahtina grape for this wine.
Wine writer Nenad Trifunović has followed Plava Greda for several vintages and generously shared his perspective with us. The original reviews, as well as all of Nenad’s work, can be found on his blog site Dnevnik Vinopije (Wine Drinker Journal).
2012 Brkić Plava Greda by Nenad Trifunović
Multilayered, complex, sophisticated, biodynamic, organic farming, Bosnian oak are all terms often used in the attempt to describe Plava Greda. Interestingly the same terms are not automatically associated to Herzegovina and even the autochthonous variety Blatina. However, when someone asks which Blatina would I choose as the finest representative of its variety and origin, Plava Greda from Brkić is my top choice.
I admit I rarely purchase wine in quantity apart from a few bottles since I have no suitable cellar for longer holding. I barely have enough space with my current tasting rhythm and focus on about 15 labels per month. Yet Plava Greda is just the wine that is well worth following through the years, a wine that represents a significant contribution to any wine socializing opportunity, a wine in whose moderation I love to enjoy my time. Which is why I organized a workshop, “Plava Greda Vertical Tasting”, during last year`s Vinocom festival in Zagreb. In all honesty, my love for the wine is only part of the reason; I needed to share a phenomenal case of 2009 Plava Greda. In fact, I am an opportunistic vagabond who took advantage of Josip Brkić in order to uninhibitedly enjoy a tasting of Plava Greda vintages from 2006 to 2012. I could have easily filled the hall with 30 people but no, I selfishly invited just 10 participants to share drops of the precious liquid. I would like to seize this opportunity to apologize to all who were not fast enough to book their spot.
At the workshop, I discovered the fascinating differences between the vintages which might not be as easy to recognize if not tasted side by side because the wine truly is recognizable regardless of the variations of the vintage. Yet the differences in life curves, aromatic aspects, structure and overall impression are significant. If I can remember correctly, 2009 and 2007 were particularly to my liking. Plava Greda 2012 is in its fruit-forward youth: a juicy kiss of cranberry from a bit more “opulent” vintage. It is still a Blatina from 30-year old vineyard, 24 months on fine lees, dry as gunpowder with appropriate 12.8% alc, a bit “sweeter” fruit but also with vinous acids that hides something different, something deep and unstable as life itself and yet persuasive and firm… giving potency to an earthy character that only Blatina can transfer so sincerely. The thing that Brkić always manages to achieve with Plava Greda is a cold earthy character with a phenomenal natural balance of acids and tannins.
You can find the original article here.