Ever wondered about the distinctive characteristics of Malvasia from Istria, Croatia? Respected Croatian wine writer Nenad Trifunović explains what to appreciate from the varietal, why Piquentum Blanc is one of his favorite examples, and the key differences between the last two vintages.
Piquentum, Blanc 2014 vs. Piquentum, Blanc 2013
Soft aromas on the nose with gentle acacia and light, very mild oxidative hints from un-typical Malvasia Istriana, a clone of the varietal that is quite different from others.
Different from dominant styles, Dimitri Brečević always tries to present the native and true character of Malvasia Istriana. Despite the fact that 2014 was an extremely difficult vintage, this wine shatters expectations.
Although the fruity Malvasia Istriana wines can be drunk upon release, the wines benefit from a little aging to allow the bracing acidity to integrate completely. That being said, the 2014 is still green and raw in comparison to 2013. However, both wines are on the same track.
The 2013 vintage exhibits the calm, supple side of Malvasia consistent with Dimitri Brečević’s sensibility. Persistent on the palate with a high level of extraction. Such beautiful simplicity makes a man wonder why not all Malvasia Istriana`s aren`t like this. Of course, the “zingy minerality” of Piquentum Blanc is not something that can be easily copied.
If I had to choose a single Malvasia Istriana to offer an alien race visiting Earth for the first time, the choice would not be either the clean/green cult of young Malvasia or the oak/acacia aged Malvasia; and not even the skin macerated “orange” Malvasia. I would suggest a certain vintage of Palčić Malvasia, Roxanich Malvazijica and especially, Piquentum Blanc…
Reposted from Wine Drinker Journal with permission from Nenad Trifunović. See the original, untranslated review here.
Purchase Piquentum Blanc here.