French photographer, writer and blogger at Wineterroirs, Bertrand Celce recently visited the Tokaj region and was impressed by the dynamism of its young winemakers.
The Tokaj region may be felt like an established wine region from abroad due to its documented tradition in the past centuries but oddly it’s also a very dynamic region in terms of young artisan winemakers, it’l like if Burgundy met Touraine or Anjou, and there may be several reasons behind this, one of them being possibly the socialist interlude during which the parcels on the slopes, the equivalent of the Burgundy climats were abandoned under the post-war communist rule in favor of massive plantings on the flatland for productivist efficiency : Since freedom of enterprise came back around 1989, daring vignerons had all these slopes (then covered by bushes and woods) to reconquer with great potential for making quality wine again
During his trip, he visited the vineyards and cellars of Bott Winery owned by Judit & József Bodó, and tasted the estate’s latest production:
Teleki 2015, made with Furmint and a bit of Hárslevelű (there are a few complanted vines). Vines are 70 years old, their oldest parcel. Loess soil with lots of chalk. Complexity on the nose with Berlingot aromas. Elegant wine with good length in the mouth, no spitting, I don’t care about drink & drive rules…. Sells for 5400 Forints (17 € or 19 USD). In 2015 the berries were very small because of the dry weather and they had much smaller volumes.
Read the whole article and enjoy Bertrand Celce’s photos here.
We’re looking forward to tasting Judit & József latest wines when they’re bottled later this year and shipped to the US. In the meantime, we can enjoy the Bott Határi Hárslevelű 2012 and Bott Határi Hárslevelű 2013. These are two highly mineral Hárslevelű, sourced from the the Grand Cru Határi, a complex terroir characterized by its mix of clay, limestone, rhyolite-tufa, and obsidian rocks.