#WineWednesday Spotlight #37: Csendes Dűlő Kéknyelü & Hárslevelű

Julia Dora Molnar
Julia Dóra Molnar and her mother Beáta, co-owners of Csendes Dűlő. Photo: Eric Danch

This tasting note has been translated from the original German text written by Peter Klingler for his blog Borwerk (a Hungarian-German word combination meaning “WineWorks”).

As if German is not tough enough, Peter’s distinctly short-hand style is not easy to transfer to English prose. We tried to make it readable and still retain the flavor of his personality.

Most striking at first: how inconspicuous both wines are. It seems as if the Kéknyelü – AKA Blaustengler in German – and the Hárslevelü as well, do justice to the name of the estate: Csendes Dűlő. Quiet, tranquil vineyard.

But unobtrusiveness and silence change over time. Formative for a specific style, if you can say that at all about one of the first vintages of a new producer on the fine wine market, the impression of a distinct character remains, nevertheless. This can simply be explained with time, or rather with their youth. In the first few minutes in the glass, both wines appear closed.

This changes over time, mainly with the Kéknyelû. After a few days it packs a bunch of flavors on top. The fruit remains rather sparse, pears, quince, yellow stone fruit, half-ripe and somewhat restrained. A fine mineral line, salt, pebbles, slightly smoky steel. Everything covered, settled, almost a little shy. The crystal clear acids, hitting the Kéknyelû at times a little bit over the limits, fit in quite well. But broadening through the varietal spices, almost untamed at first, adolescent-masculine flavors emerge without any cracks. This has something. Here slumbers more power and potential than one might assume in the beginning. Coherent and balanced, after all.

csendes bottle and rock
Basalt rock. Photo: Eric Danch

The Hárslevelű however remains longer in its youthful stage. Reserved, biding its time, it never quite leaves this phase completely. Indeed: it tastes a little harsh in the finish. Somber, dull-covered. But a little later cool, firmed, the fruit appears more clearly here, more mature, brighter: pear, peach compote, pineapple. Slightly diffuse while standing on broader legs, plus salt, soap, wax-coated straw and pleasantly unexcited acids. That was it – already. After or besides the Kéknyelű, the Hárslevelű inevitably looks like an underperfomer. Much broader, more powerful it will probably not become in the coming years. In the end, it’s very clearly structured and substantially more coherent and resting in itself, than many fat, high-percentage conspecifics from other producers, other regions.

Badcsony at Lake Balaton. Photo: Eric Danch

No doubt. Still waters run deep. A first, gentle, and discreetly echoing exclamation mark by Csendes Dűlő, from the northern shore of lake Balaton (“flat lake” in German). That’s good. Serves this region well with its limited handful of interesting producers, today.

Learn more about the Csendes Dűlő estate here, as well as the 2013 Csendes Dűlő Hárslevelű and 2013 Csendes Dűlő Kéknyelű.

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