Our friend James the Wine Guy just posted another great video review, this time of the delicious Austrian red Muhr-van der Niepoort Samt & Seide. The name means Velvet & Silk in German and is an accurate description of the wine’s character. Composed of 100% Blaufränkisch from the extreme eastern Austrian winegrowing region Carnuntum, it speaks with authority and elegance in equal measure.
I love, love, love Austrian red wines…I just delight in this wine. I think it’s so expressive and beautiful.
James gives this wine 94 points out of 100 finding fruit, earth, and floral aromatics. He suggests pairing it with foods like pork, beef, salmon, red sauce dishes, and anything spiced with paprika. Watch the whole review below.
Try a bottle or even better, buy our Austrian 6-pack! It includes the Bernreiter Heuriger 2014 (1 Liter), the Bernreiter Gemischter Satz 2013, the Geyerhof Grüner Veltliner Rosensteig 2014, the Geyerhof Zweigelt Ried Richtern 2011, the Muhr-van der Niepoort Samt & Seide 2012 and the Muhr-van der Niepoort Spitzerberg 2012. All 6 bottles for just $150! Sign up for Club Vino Danubia and get free shipping!
In 2011 when Alice Feiring first arrived in Georgia, she felt as if she’d emerged from the magic wardrobe into a world filled with mythical characters making exotic and delicious wine with the low-tech methods of centuries past. She was smitten, and she wasn’t alone. This country on the Black Sea has an unusual effect on people; the most passionate rip off their clothes and drink wines out of horns while the cold-hearted well up with tears and make emotional toasts. Visiting winemakers fall under Georgia’s spell and bring home qvevris (clay fermentation vessels) while rethinking their own techniques.
But, as in any good fairy tale, Feiring sensed that danger rode shotgun with the magic. With acclaim and growing international interest come threats in the guise of new wine consultants aimed at making wines more commercial. So Feiring fought back in the only way she knew how: by celebrating Georgia and the men and women who make the wines she loves most, those made naturally with organic viticulture, minimal intervention, and no additives.
From Tbilisi to Batumi, Feiring meets winemakers, bishops, farmers, artists, and silk spinners. She feasts, toasts, and collects recipes. She encounters the thriving qvevri craftspeople of the countryside, wild grape hunters, and even Stalin’s last winemaker while plumbing the depths of this tiny country’s love for its wines.
For the Love of Wine is Feiring’s emotional tale of a remarkable country and people who have survived religious wars and Soviet occupation yet managed always to keep hold of their precious wine traditions. Embedded in the narrative is the hope that Georgia has the temerity to confront its latest threat—modernization.
Alice Feiring is an internationally known author, journalist, and essayist who lives in New York City. She has been the wine correspondent for Wall Street Journal Magazine and Time and now freelances for the New York Times, Wine and Spirits, and Omnivore. Winner of both the James Beard and the Louis Roederer wine writing awards, Feiring is the author of Naked Wine: Letting Grapes Do What Comes Naturally and The Battle for Wine and Love; or, How I Saved the World from Parkerization.
“Feiring’s lively account is a good place to begin for wine lovers seeking a head start on exploring a vastly underappreciated wine-producing country.”—Kirkus
“By the time you’ve picked up this book, Georgian wine will be internationally known—thanks in no small part to Alice Feiring, who has put her passion and pen behind it. What do God, Stalin, and truth have to do with great wine? Follow her on her journeys into a rich and fascinating culture and find out.” —Christine Muhlke, executive editor of Bon Appétit
“With charm, flair, and deep human compassion Alice Feiring immerses us in the ancient contradictory culture of Georgia. Reading her vivid prose one can almost sniff the orange blossom notes in the wines, savor the eggplant rolls filled with garlicky walnuts, and share epic feasts with a cast of unforgettable characters. How lucky we are to have her as our guide to this fascinating, singular country.”—Anya Von Bremzen, author of The Art of Soviet Cooking
This is a superb wine…really spectacular! On this I’m getting notes of moist stones, green and yellow citrus zest, quince, and passionfruit. Gorgeous minerality to this wine, lean yet assuringly generous at the same time…seek this wine out!
If you are not familiar with James’s wine reviews, he creates videos for each wine and posts them on YouTube. Watch the video below to see his full evaluation of this “compelling” wine!
Thanks to sommeliers and wine buyers eager to introduce “new” bottles to their customers, Hungarian wine is enjoying newfound respect on the well-vetted lists of restaurants like the Progress, Petit Crenn, Lord Stanley, Octavia, and the Slanted Door, and occupying hallowed shelf space at institutions like Bi-Rite and Bay Grape.
Our Northern CA Sales Manager Eric Danch says:
What’s most encouraging is that many of these wines don’t linger on lists; they move and get reordered. We’re seeing this in numbers; there’s undeniable growth. This year, we’re bringing in at least eight brand-new producers.
What are the sommeliers saying?
Jeff Berlin of À Côté on 2011 Fekete Béla Juhfark: “A fascinating grape that cab be rich and ripe, but always displays the (terroir) or its volcanic vineyards.”
Great interview by Luke Sykora in the latest Wine & Spirits Magazine with Lulu McAllister, one of San Francisco’s top sommeliers behind the wine lists of Nopa and Liholiho Yacht Club. She had some nice things to say about Blue Danube Wine Co and the Hungarian grape, kadarka!
This year I’ve really loved working with kadarka. It tastes brooding in terms of aromatics and fruit profile, but it’s actually fairly zippy, leaner than the color in the glass would suggest. They call it “bull’s blood,” so sometimes I will explain that to people. It can handle a wider range of flavors than most medium-bodied, thicker, more rugged wines can handle. I can actually pair it with lighter dishes and it can hold its own when heavier dishes come out. I wouldn’t say it’s like pinot noir exactly, but it works in a similar way. Eric Danch [the northern California sales manager] at Blue Danube, is kind of the guy for these funky grapes. His portfolio is one of the most exciting out there right now; he’s going all-in on wines that are really obscure for most people. And if he says, “You’ve got to try this….”
…in abstract terms, this wine from the growing region Carnuntum at the far eastern end of Austria offers a marvellous combination of purpose and charm.
More elegant than most of the monumental Blaufränkisch that neighbouring Burgenland produced in the blockbuster red wine vintage 2012, the colour is a deep ruby red with violet highlights, showing slightly lighter at the rim.
A vivid and multifacetted aromatic profile incorporates subtle hints of the old cigar-box – both the substance of which the box was made and its contents – which manifest themselves as a light spiciness on the surface of a bouquet characterised by deep, dark cherry and blackberry fruit.
On the palate, the wine delivers such a solid sense of substance that one is not really prepared for the grace and delicacy of its overall impression. The luscious texture of the Blaufränkisch fruit (again, dark cherries and blackberry) is supported by a nearly seamless framework of soft, ripened tannins and pert acidity, coming together in a finish that integrates this great vineyard site’s storied minerality with the generous material grown on the vine.
Excellent length, comparatively low alcohol – 13° on the label and I think (for once) somebody is telling the truth – even though the wine is very approachable and gratifying to drink now just after release, it should have a long and happy life in the cellar; at ten years of age it should fool more than one blind taster into thinking that they have Chambolle-Musigny in their glass.
Spitzerberg is the last and least of the Lesser Carpathians. It is neither spitz – pointed, nor Berg – a mountain; a slump-shouldered acclivity at best, covered mostly with trees and only partially with the vine, situated in a protected nature preserve. In the easternmost Austrian winegrowing region Carnuntum, it lies closer to Bratislava than to Vienna. Grapes have been grown here for centuries, taking advantage of the hillside’s position as the first elevation encountered by the warm and dry air masses that stream northward from the Pannonian plain, but its vineyards had fallen into a state of neglect and desuetude for most of the recent decades.
Muhr-van der Niepoort’s top wine, Blaufränkisch Spitzerberg – as well as their Blaufränkisch Samt & Seide – are distinctive, in that the estate has chosen not to model their wines on examples from the Leithagebirge, the Eisenberg and or Gols, but rather expresses the contrast of their meager and parched hillside soils to the moisture-retentive heavier ground down around Lake Neusiedl. Spitzerberg offers an elegant, subtle and mineral-driven perspective on the confluence of old vines and fossil limestone; long-lived and long on the palate, fine and densely packed. The vines are old – not Sonoma Zinfandel old, but 40–60 years of age – Burgundy old, rather… Samt & Seide (Velvet and Silk) is bottled from vines between 10–30 years old, and shows a rounder character while still projecting the message of the earth in which the vines grow.
Muhr-van der Niepoort is the viticultural collaboration between Vienna’s doyenne of marketing in matters of taste – Dorli Muhr – and the Oporto master, ringleader of the Douro Boys, Dirk Niepoort. The estate started out with a mere 0.3 hectares of vines handed down through the Muhr family, and has grown to its current size of twelve hectares, with no further significant increase anticipated. With this expansion, Dorli and Dirk (the two Ds facing on the label) have taken the lead in restoring this marvelous vineyard land to its potential.
All work is done by hand, and the cellar – actually more of a shed – houses no new barriques, so the flavoring is kept to a minimum. Every vintage sees creation of several microvinifications: with autochthnonous yeasts – some foot-trodden, some whole cluster fermentation, some with extended periods of maceration – all undertaken in order to learn from the vines and the grapes, to determine what brings forth the most distinctive expression of site and substance.
In a winegrowing region best known for its affable and quaffable Zweigelt, the Spitzerberg is something of a viticultural island, a core of granite blanketed with limestone, which offers the ideal soil for growing a grapevine that is steadily becoming regarded as a member of the upper echelon worldwide, the Blaufränkisch. Sitting flavor-wise in the center of an angel’s triangle between Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo and Syrah, the Blaufränker remains distinctively Austrian; most of the finer examples are grown in nearby Burgenland, where the variety thrives under a wide variety of interpretations.
A few years ago I went for a ride with Dorli out to her native Carnuntum village of Rohrau and took part in a singular ceremony where the fifteen growers who have vines on the Spitzerberg (and their guests, including myself and Falstaff magazine editor Peter Moser) tasted the wines of the current vintage blind, and then voted among themselves to determine which could be permitted to bear the name Spitzerberg on the label in that particular vintage, and which must unfortunately be declassified and sold as Blaufränkisch Carnuntum. Severe and demanding criteria have been set, which even fine growers cannot always meet. From the 2006 vintage, for example, only four wines were selected to carry the name Spitzerberg.
A more recent outing found Ms Muhr and myself seated at a table for six in a swish restaurant in Düsseldorf with a couple Dutch wine merchants, AWMB headman Willi Klinger and Italian grower Angelo Gaja. There could be no clearer indication of the Blaufränkisch’s gustatory kinship with Nebbiolo than the seamless fashion in which Muhr-van der Niepoort’s 2010 Spitzerberg led in to the king of the Piemontaise hill’s 2004 Barolo Sperss. And Signore Gaja was in no way stingy in his praise of the Austrian red.
The current Blue Danube Wine Co. import portfolio is rounded out with with a distinctive, foot-trodden fermented- on-the-skins Grüner Veltliner (complemented with 10% Riesling) called Prellenkirchen, which occasionally shares the fate of Moric’s Grüner Veltliner and Pepi Umathum’s Hárslevelű, of not being awarded a registration number by the local (somewhat hidebound) tasting authority.
An extinct volcano 2300 feet above sea level, Shavnabada is a mountain that has housed a Medieval monastery of the same name. It was restored in 1992 and the monks have been making wine on the property since 1998. Certified organic, they are old school and ferment and age the wines underground in amphora for years, 12 in the case of the Rkatsiteli. Every time I think of this winery, images of Sean Connery from In the Name of the Rose pop into my head. Amber colored, with toasted nuts, spice and dried stone fruits, one door of flavor leads to another – it’s pretty astonishing.
This “astonishing” wine is made from hand harvested grapes under the strict supervision of the monks. The grapes are foot trodden in a traditional wooden press, and are not fined or filtered before being bottled by hand. The bottleneck is covered with beeswax from Shavnabada’s own bees. Interestingly enough they produce literally tons of wild honey each year in addition to wine.
Try this rich amber wine with hearty dishes, like braises or stews, and it might become one of your top wines!
Orange wines, or perhaps more accurately described as amber wines, have been gaining more and more popularity with wine consumers. Writer Robin Shreeves gives these wines a try with the help of Keith Beavers, wine educator and owner of New York City’s In Vino Restaurant & Wine Bar, for Mother Nature Network.
What is orange wine?
The simple way to explain orange wine is that it’s white wine made like red wine. For white wine, the skins of white or red grapes are separated from the juice immediately. When red wines are made, the juice and the skins are left together for a time, imparting the color and the tannins from the skins, seeds and stems into the wine.
Orange wine is made from the juice of white grapes that have contact with their skins for a time before fermenting, imparting an orange or amber tint to the wine.
See Robin’s notes on a few of the “orange” or “amber” wines we import:
Oil was what jumped out at me the first time I breathed in the scents of an orange wine — although I got motor oil, not linseed. Our host chose Piquentum Blanc’12 from Croatia made from the malvasia grape as our introduction, a wine he refers to as “Fisher Price My First Orange Wine.” The juice spends just a few days on the skins before fermentation, giving it more of a yellow-orange color than a deeper amber.
The wine confused me at first. I liked it, but there was no familiarity to the taste. My brain didn’t know what to do with it. There was a little sour apple, some earthiness and savoriness to it, and a hint of citrus. This wine was paired with roasted vegetables resting on toasted sour dough bread, all topped with plushy-on-the-inside burrata. It soon became clear this is a very good food wine.
Next Beavers opened Rebula 2012 from Kabaj winery in Slovenia. The photo taken in the low light of the restaurant doesn’t do the beautiful color of this wine justice. It has contact with the skins for 30 days, giving it more of an orange hue than the Piquentum.
The time spent in contact with the skins gives the wine a heavy tannic structure, which was a surprise to me because, again, my brain didn’t know what to do with it. My eyes saw an orange wine, and my brain expected it to be more like a white or a rose instead of a red.
Born and raised in California, the hardest part of adjusting to life on the East Coast has been learning to love (ok – more like survive) the long, cold winters. Sipping on a glass of wine while soaking in a bubble bath I find does wonders.
This past weekend as temperatures dipped down into the teens, I enjoyed a glass of Štoka Teran Rosé Peneče (Pet-Nat) 2014 with my bath. Because there are less bubbles in a Pet-Nat than Charmant or traditionally made sparkling wines, it makes for a more refreshing and easier to drink beverage. This gently sparkling Rosé is a little hazy in the glass, with a slightly salmon hue. The nose offers notes of wild strawberry, juniper berries and freshly baked brioche.
I enjoyed my glass of Teran Rosé Peneče alone, but in Slovenia the Štoka family serves it alongside the air cured ham that hangs over their barrels in the cellar.
Here’s to making it out of winter alive and in good spirits!