For blogger Steve Mirsky, Furmint is Hungary’s answer to other less mainstream white wines gaining prominence lately, such as Austria’s Grüner Veltliner. “Now is the perfect time to be a hero,” he writes, “and skip your go-to Chardonnay or Riesling.”
If you’re ready to skip your usual Chardonnay for the vibrant Furmint, here is Steve’s review of the 2015 Patricius Dry Furmint from Tokaj:
Patricius began purchasing first-growth classified vineyards in 1997, now totaling 346 acres. Their wine press house built over 200 years ago and then owned and operated by the Jesuits and aristocratic families, was renovated into a state-of-the-art underground winery in 2005 utilizing gravitational technology yet preserving original architectural details. It is here that winemakers showcase the local Furmint grape’s vibrant minerality and well-balanced acidity in their lineup particularly in their 2015 Dry Furmint.
Harvesting begins in September, with fermentation and maturation taking place entirely in stainless steel allowing the grapes to showcase a darker refreshing mouth feel similar to cold cask conditioned ale complemented with a refreshing bite ranging from fresh apple to spring greens. Well balanced fruit with honeyed spice on the nose, its brisk even minerality sets the stage for a cleansed palate pairing nicely with chicken, seafood, and sushi.
Now, do you know that tomorrow February 1st is Furmint Day? Drink Furmint, whether it’s dry, off dry, sparkling, under flor, or sweet, and share your experience with your friends! Actually, the whole month of February is the month of Furmint, so enjoy Furmint! #FurmintDay
There is so much well deserved hype over volcanic appellations like the Canary Islands, Santorini, Sicily and so on, but Hungary and its surrounding regions in the Pannonian basin are rarely mentioned.
Whether from Tokaj, Somló or Mátra (to name just a few), Furmint is an ideally suited grape for these regions’ rich volcanic soils. With naturally high acidity, ability to attain high sugar levels, and ability to find balance with botrytis, it also still carries its own flavors along with the salt, smoke and density from the volcanic soils. Furthermore, Furmint can do this vinified as dry, off dry, sparkling, oxidatively, under flor, reductively, and sweet.
The second International Furmint Day is February 1st 2018. Celebrate Furmint on that day, taste it, like it, share it! #furmintday
“There’s much more to Romanian wine than cheap Pinot,”writes wine columnist Henry Jeffreys in Food & Wine. “ The country has a wealth of indigenous grapes such as Fetească Regală and Crâmpoşie for whites, and for reds Fetească Neagră, Novac and the wonderfully named Negru de Drăgăşani (it’s pronounced something like Drer-ger-sharn which sounds like a character from Game of Thrones).”
A trip to visit Romanian wineries took him to the historical city of Timișoara in Western Romania and the nearby Balla Géza Winery:
Timișoara has the feel of a miniature Vienna or Budapest. The west of Romania used to be part of the Austro-Hungarian empire and there’s still a strong Hungarian influence. Balla Géza, owner of another vineyard near the city, Princess Winery (they do love a Princess in Romania) is Hungarian. Alongside the Romanian and international varieties he grows Hungarian grapes such as the white Furmint (famous for Tokaji) and the reds Kadarka and Kekfrankos (Blaufrankisch in Austria) He was manager for the state wine company and when Communism collapsed managed to buy up the best land at very reasonable prices, he told me with a glint in his eye.
Tourism is very important for him too. He has a guest house on site and an extremely good cook. On my visit we feasted on roast duck with quinces, stuffed cabbage leaves and roast loin of pork in a cream sauce.
Balla Géza is our first producer from Romania and Fetească Neagră is our first native Romanian red grape variety. Fetească Neagră means the “black girl” and originates from the Eastern part of Transylvania. The wine is deliciously fruity, spicy with round tannins and makes an excellent accompaniment for savory stuffed cabbage leaves.
Etty is a sommelier who sources delicious world wines at under $30/bottle. She curates artisanal, small-batch, sustainably grown, organic and biodynamic boutique wines from around the globe for PLONK. Etty’s club is designed for both the new wine lover who wants to learn about wine, as well as those like myself – jaded oenophiles who know what they like but like trying new and exciting things, and LOVE finding new, small-batch producers who are making their way in the world offering tremendous values. . . . . Why do I like her approach? Well first, I liked her wine choices. They’re great!
Color is deep garnet, with an opaque center. The nose offers dark red fruit, heat, eucalyptus, and forest floor. On the palate, I received full-bodied sour cherry, red plum, with strong tannins and mouthwatering acidity. Final notes of small stones, sodium and red currants. This is a fascinating wine; I immediately wanted another sip. For a second time, getting that memory of the fruit and a hint of bitterness on the moderate finish, I wanted this with pizza or adjaruli khachapuri (Georgian cheese bread) but it would work with a myriad of flavors. It actually complemented both a wurst and dark chocolate so beautifully, but any flavorful or savory dish would complement nicely. At $22/bottle I’d like to open this with friends and some snacks just to discuss. This is a wine-lover’s delight, for sure- but a foodie wine as well. I’m going to need to find more Slovenian wines!
I’d wanted to try these wines for a while and finally had the opportunity at a Blue Danube Wine tasting over the summer. Josip Brkić is, from what I’ve heard, the only natural winemaker in Bosnia Herzegovina. Using biodynamic practices and indigenous grapes, he’s making very pure and effusive wines and Mjesecar, a skin-fermented white wine made from Zilavka, is exceptional. You can read more about it here. I hope his efforts will inspire other growers in BH to go down a more natural path. This year I’ve had a number of wines from the Balkans that have been on par with great wines from the rest of the continent, and hope this is just a glimpse of what the future holds. The former Yugoslav countries went through a horrendous period in the 90’s, and if the winemaking is one sign that things continue to improve for people in this part of the world, I’ll drink to that.
Mjesečar means the Moon Walker in Bosnian and it is Josip’s first wine made in a complete biodynamic way. All the farming and winemaking work is done according to the phases of the Moon as you can see on the wine’s label.
For Josip, producing a new wine is like giving birth to a new life. You should try it, the wine is magical.
“If I may,” the Count interjected. “For a serving of Latvian stew, you will find no better choice than a bottle of the Mukuzani.”
Leaning toward their table and mimicking the perfectly parted fingers of Andrey, the Count gestured to the entry on the list. That this wine was a fraction of the cost of the Rioja need not be a matter of a discussion between gentlemen. Instead, the Count simply noted: “The Georgians practically grow their grapes in the hopes that one day they will accompany such a stew.”
The young man exchanged a brief glance with his companion as if to say, Who is this eccentric? But then he turned to the Bishop.
“A bottle of the Mukuzani.” ‘A Gentleman In Moscow,’ By Amor Towles
One of our customers called us recently, asking if we had any Mukuzani. “I’m part of a book club and we’re reading ‘A Gentleman In Moscow.’ We’ll be making a Latvian stew and we’ll like to serve a Mukuzani with it.”
For sure, wines from the Saperavi grapes from the Mukuzani vineyard are considered by many to be the best of the Georgian red wines. Mukuzani is aged in oak casks for a longer time — at least three years — and as a result of its longer aging, it has more complexity than the other Saperavi wines.
Just as he’d suspected, it was the perfect dish for the season. The onions thoroughly caramelized, the pork slowly braised, and the apricots briefly stewed, the three ingredients came together in a sweet and smoky medley that simultaneously suggested the comfort of a snowed-in tavern and the jangle of a Gypsy tambourine.
As the Count took a sip of his wine, the young couple caught his eye and raised their own glasses in a toast of gratitude and kinship.
Drink like Count Rostov at the Hotel Metropol on Theater Square in Moscow. Pair your Latvian stew, a tasty pork stew with apricots and prunes, with a bottle of Danieli Mukuzani, the perfect pairing for the season!
“The first thing I did when my daughter was born, I dipped my finger into Tokaj and placed a drop on Aszú on her tongue so she would know where she came from.” -Peter Molnár, Patricius Tokaj Estate Manager and Winemaker.
Last month I had an amazing dinner with the best of company at Song @ntmrkt with @orshi.kiss @edanch @bluedanubewine along with Peter Molnár from @patriciustokaj.
Each of Patricius wines were unique and delicious. However, the Katinka and Aszú offer a very special experience. I don’t want to sound corny and I don’t typically purport to be spiritual. For whatever reasons even just a tiny sip of Tokaji invigorates me. It’s the cure for both emotional and physical ails. These are spiritual wines and it’s important for all of us to have Tokaji on hand, for healing as well as pleasure.
“It’s no surprise Georgia produces good wines – it’s been at it a really long time,”writes Bryan Flewelling, wine director for three restaurants in Portland, Maine after tasting a selection of Georgian wines vinified in the same way they were 8,000 years ago.
The standouts of the tasting were both produced by the Doqi winery, located in the wine region of Kakheti. One was an amber, or orange, wine made from Georgia’s most important white grape, rkatsiteli, and the other was a red wine made from Georgia’s most important red grape, saperavi. Both are vinified in the traditional Georgian quervi, large earthenware pots that are buried underground to stabilize the fermenting temperature throughout the winter months.
The Rkatsiteli Quervi was the color of lightly steeped tea, the result of extended skin contact. When red grapes are crushed and the skins are left in contact with the fermenting juice, they turn red – most of you know this. When white grapes are crushed and the skins are left in contact with the fermenting juice, a practice that’s infrequent, the wine turns amber. It smelled of spice and honey and yellow raisins. I know that sounds dessert-like, but it’s not. Imagine honey without the sweetness if you can. And, because of the long skin contact, the finished wine picks up some tannins, which is unusual for a white wine. Different and fantastic are my descriptors.
“If, occasionally, you need to inject a bit of novelty into the familiar aspects of your life,” concludes Bryan, “then these wines will be the perfect infusion.”
Exotic Wine Travel is the joint project of Charine Tan and Dr Matthew Horkey. They write wine travel books and share travel tips, videos, stories, and exciting finds from lesser-known wine regions on their website exoticwinetravel.com.
They also have a weekly column, As Drunk By, where they feature interesting wines they encourage wine lovers to seek out.
The Kikelet Furmint, tasted at Könyvbár & Restaurant in Budapest, was the featured wine in one of their latest columns. It was one of the wines that stood out that evening among 13 wines that they tasted over dinner:
The Kikelet Birtokbor Furmint 2014 is an exemplar of dry Tokaji. The grapes of this bottling underwent long, spontaneous fermentation in old oak barrels. The wine expresses a floral and fiery overtone, accompanied by a core of green apple, flint, almond oil, and lime. Great fruit intensity on the palate with a tertiary hint of spiciness. The high acidity in this wine cleanses the palate and makes it rather food-friendly. A chicken soup or a kind of broth with this wine would be nice. It’s a marvelous effort for a wet and rainy vintage that resulted in small quantities.
We just received the 2016 vintage. It’s a great year, and it’s available on our webshop. Don’t wait, it will sell out quickly!
Also, if you want to learn more about new and exciting wines, check out Charine & Matthew’s website and explore with them some of the most exciting, lesser-known wine regions.
Hurricane delays and late container planning be damned, new arrivals from Hungary, Austria and Romania have finally landed in California. From out west in Sopron and Carnuntum, down in Somló and Lake Balaton, further still to Szekszárd, heading back northeast to Tokaj, and finally all the way over to Romania’s Minis region, these wines are a validation that the farming, winemaking and understanding of terroir are getting better and better year after year.
The Reds: Wetzer, Muhr-van der Niepoort, Heimann, Eszterbauer and Balla Géza
Only 10 years in, but using maps from the 1840s to find the best vineyards, Peter Wetzer’s 2016 vintage is our Hungarian foil for Cru Beaujolais. It doesn’t taste like Beaujolais, but the balance of spice, earth and structure makes the same person happy. Just about an hour north in Austria’s Carnuntum, the 2015 Samt und Seide from Muhr-van Der Niepoort has more limestone than Sopron’s slate, and is proof of how reflective of terroir Blaufränkisch can be.
Further south in Szeskszárd near the Croatian border, we finally have some Kadarka back in stock. Once the most planted red in Hungary and a muse to composers like Franz Liszt (Hungarian Rhapsodies…), it nearly disappeared during Communism. Producers like Heimann and Eszterbauer have been tirelessly working on clonal and massale selection to bring this grape back to life. Proof of Kadarka’s genetic diversity, the 2016 Heimann is impossibly light and flavorful and the 2016 Eszterbauer “Nagyapám” is dark yet light on it’s feet. Kadarka’s reach and diversity was once so vast, that it’s also called Cadarcâ in Romania. Located near the village of Păuliş, originally named “Wine Princess,” Balla Géza’s 2016 Cadarcâ (and his Fetească Neagră for that matter) is the darkest and most concentrated of the lot but still has the remarkable levity of the variety.
The Whites: Demeter Zoltán, Kikelet, Apátsági, Fekete Béla, Csendes Dűlő, Káli-Kövek, Patricius and Balla Géza
Starting along the northern shores of Lake Balaton, affectionately known as the “Hungarian Sea,” is where fertile soil, basalt fragments (crazy high amounts of potassium) and ripe exposures meet. In other words, bright, smoky and salty whites. On the western end in Badacsony, Csendes Dűlő has both a honeyed aromatic 2015 Hárslevelű and a razor sharp and salty 2015 Kéknyelű. A little further east and away from the water’s edge in the Káli Basin, Káli Kövek is making intensely layered Olaszrizling (aka Welschriesling). Both of his wines (2016 Rezeda and 2016 Köveskál) share a weight, roundness, saltiness, and wildflower-ness that scream Lake Balaton.
Just about an hour north is the hardened Basalt “witness peak” of Somló. Later picked, barrel fermented and aged, and balanced with oxidation and residual sugar, these are white wines where no red wines are necessary. The new 2015 Furmint from Apátsági is that impossible balance of picking late for concentration and still having plenty of acidity to keep the wine refreshing. From Fekete Béla (Uncle Béla), we got the very last restock of his 2012 Juhfark, Furmint and Hárslevelű. The 2013s will be ready in the Spring.
Back up in North-Eastern Hungary near the Slovakian border, we have some special and rare offerings from Tokaj. Benchmarks for both dry and sweet, Zoltán Demeter’s 2016 Birtok Furmint and 2016 Szerelmi Hárslevelű are the product of 20+ years of fine tuning the dry wines of the region post Communism. The Birtok (estate) comes from the Hold-völgy, Veres and Boda vineyards with a splash of aromatics from Szerelmi. The 100% Hárslevelű from Szerelmi, a mere 1526 bottle production, is something everybody should taste. Just on the other side of Tokaj Hill is the village of Tarcal and Kikelet Winery. Stéphanie Berecz has taken these loess heavy soils and made some of the most texturally elegant dry Tokaj we’ve found. Her 2016 estate Furmint has sweet acids, salt and length. We also got a small restock of her 2013 traditional method Hárslevelű from the 45 year old Lónyai and Kassai vineyards.
Rounding out an otherwise entire lineup of dry volcanic wines, is Balla Gèza’s Mustoasa de Măderat. Light, bright, aromatic, and dry, this is one of those wines that can be on the table from start to finish and reset you in between.
The Botrytized: Samuel Tinon, Patricius, and Demeter Zoltán
This is where things get a little preachy… Whether late harvest, dry or sweet Szamorodni or Aszú, our hope is that these kinds of wines can break free of the back of the dessert menu and work their way into pairings, as aperitifs, or with anything umami and fatty. For the light bodied non-oxidative approach, the 2016 Katinka Late Harvest from Patricius or the slightly more oxidate and rich 2016 Late Harvest from Zoltán Demeter are both amazing wines to start a dinner. The 2008 Dry Szamorodni from Samuel Tinon (aged until dry under a yeast veil, no maderisation or fortification) hints at both Sherry and Vin Jaune, but still has the honey and minerality of botrytis and volcanic soils. As for Aszú, the 2013 Patricius is again the non-oxidative approach while Tinon’s 2007 embraces it. Both have a concentration, vibrancy, and focus unique to Tokaj.