Csontos Furmint

Bott Csontos Furmint 2011

Bott, Tokaj (Hungary)
White (13.5%)
Furmint
$34.95
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Our Notes: Furmint has the triple threat of incredibly high acidity, retaining the sweetness and body of residual sugar, and being highly susceptible to Botrytis. Csontos succeeds in all three, but the 2011 vintage allowed the Botts to pick around the Botrytis, yielding an incredibly structured wine.

Csontos, literally “strong-boned,” is a vineyard right on the border between the Olaszliszka and Erdőbénye regions. Officially attached to the Tokaj domain in 1560, these red clay (nyirok) and volcanic (rhyolite tuff) soils have been cultivated long before that. Within a few miles from Erdőbénye heading towards Tolcsva, the vineyard is planted right on the edge of the Zemplèn forest which protects it from the harsh winds of the north. With just over 1 hectare of southern facing 35 year old Furmint, the soil is still tilled by horses.

The mixture of clay and volcanic soils impart a chalk-like texture coupled with dried fruit, honey, spice, and a mineral backbone that keeps everything in balance. Fermented slowly with native yeasts at uncontrolled temperatures, it’s remarkable how true to place it remains. Judit and Jószef prepared roasted goat on our last visit and the Csontos came alive when paired with the strong gamey flavors of the meat and the sweetness of the caramelized vegetables.

93 Points Wine & Spirits Magazine: “Jozsef Bodo farms three acres of old vines in the steeply sloping Csontos vineyard. His wife, Judit, takes over in the cellar, employing a traditional wooden Hungarian press and native yeasts to ferment the wine in 220-liter old oak barrels. It's elegant, with a quartz-like clarity to the honey-ripe fruit, a taunt line of limey acidity streamlining its broad, firm body. Spice and citrus notes shine through the density like gold flakes, a quiet touch of opulence to balance its restraint.

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